The History of Wine-Making in Spain

It would be impossible to talk about travelling in Spain and not touch on wine,as its history is so relevant to both the country and culture. Spanish wines are some of the richest in the world both delighting and challenging the drinker and are highly revered by international connoisseurs. Spanish wine production forms a vital part of the country's economy both in terms of exportation and tourism. 

Owing their prominence to a turbulent history, unique topography and the incredible spirit of the Spanish people. Spain is the third largest wine producer in the world and has 69 distinctive wine regions. Spain is a large country geographically and has more acreage under grape cultivation than any other country in the world although many vineyards are low-yielding. Firmly rooted in tradition and steeped in history but at the same time modern and vibrant, Spain is a study in contrasts and just like the climate and geography offers a spectacular variety of wines. Grapes are grown throughout every region of the country with Castilla-La Mancha having nearly half of the planted acreage followed by Extremadura, Valencia, Castilla-Leon, Catalonia, Murcia and Rioja. About two-thirds of all wines produced in Spain are table wines with about one-third comprising of high-quality wines. Red wines tend to outnumber whites. Jerez is famous for Sherry and the sparkling wine known as Cava is from Penedes.

During my time in Spain, I was involved in grape picking, worked in a small bodega, where I saw wines been made and was invited into a small Andalusia village to try wine from a private bodega. Many villages have their own vineyards and everyone takes part in grape-picking and the wine gets shared out. I visited a wine festival and tried, for research purposes only, many wonderful local wines! Holiday companies now offer tours around Spanish wineries and vineyards and I can see the appeal of visiting the breath-taking countryside and sampling the wines of Spain along with tasting the traditional cuisine. From rustic to refined, to innovative, red, white, sparkling and fortified. A feast for all the senses you will never forget.

The history of wine in Spain is so old that no one really knows who first brought vines to the area. Though many archaeologists believe that grapes were first cultivated sometime between 4000 and 3000 BC. By the time the Phoenicians arrived 3,000 years ago and founded the trading post city of Cadiz, viticulture was well established and Spanish wines became widely traded throughout the Mediterranean and North Africa.

When the Romans conquered Spain, they brought new wine-making methods. Under Roman rule it  was a golden age for Spanish wine. The two main production areas were the areas now called Tarragona and Andalusia. After the decline of the Roman Empire, the barbaric tribes from the north of Europe invaded the Peninsula and there is little information about wine history during these times. Most probably these tribes drank some kind of rustic beer or wine.

The 8th-century invasion by the Arabs meant there was a religious ban on alcohol. Although, they never prevented Christians from producing their own wines. In fact, the Muslims like to eat the grapes that grew on the vines, these were dried out and consumed as raisins.

The Middle Ages brought monks from different orders from all over the world to Spain. They played a very important role in the establishment of wine cellars and wineries.The monks also brought new types of vines (different from the Spanish types of vines) and new techniques. Wine-making flourished with the rise of Catholicism. The Reconquest also reopened the wine exportation business and the city of Bilbao positioned itself at the head of it. Most of the wines sold at this time went to the English markets, where they were as highly valued as French wines.

The discovery of the New World by Christopher Columbus opened up the exportation options and the Spanish conquistadors took Spanish vines with them in order to start wine production in the new Spanish colonies. This was the beginning of wine history in the New World. The 15th and 16th centuries saw a huge rise in the popularity of Spanish wines, which were being produced in almost every area of the Iberian Peninsula.

With the arrival of the Industrial Revolution came better machines for wine making, and Spain saw a decline in the exportation of its wines. There was a brief respite when the vine louse- Phylloxera destroyed most of the Northern European vineyards during the 19th century. It was a dire time for Europe and Spain was its salvation. The plague hadn't reached the Spanish vineyards so there was plenty of wine to export to the parts of Europe where all the vineyards had been destroyed.

Winemakers from France crossed the Pyrenees Mountains bringing with them new grape varieties, modern techniques and tools. The north of Spain, specially Navarre and the Basque Country especially benefited by this and their wine tradition was much richer during this time than the rest of Spain's, because they had access to the great French wine making culture.

However, the luck didn't last, as the Phylloxera bug arrived in Spain later that century. Due to the country's geography, the plague took longer to spread, so when things started to look really dire,the cure had already been discovered. It consisted of grafting tougher vines, like the American rootstock which was immune to the bug, to weaker vines, to create a hybrid that could stand against the epidemic resulting in less damage to Spanish vineyards. If it weren't for this remedy, it's likely that wine-making tradition in Spain would not be as important today.

The wine- making industry would still face more problems before reaching its modern- day postion. World War I paralyzed the European trade market, which made exporting anything almost impossible. Then the Spanish Civil War froze the country, and while the different sides were fighting each other the vines were left unattended and some of them were even torn up to plant wheat and other cereals used in basic foods. Even when the war ended, the problems did not cease. World War 11 immobilized the European market and made it impossible for the industry to take off until the 1950s. It was around this time that some of the vineyards were replanted and the wine-making tradition began to be restored in some parts of Spain.

The first half of the 20th century left Spain wracked by war and economic disruption. Since the 1950’s Spain’s winemakers have worked steadily to improve the quality. In the 1960s came the international rediscovery of Jerez and Rioja. But the real resurgence arrived when Franco died in 1975 and the transition to democracy began. The economic freedom gave way to a growth of this market between the middle Spanish classes and the revolution came to the wine industry at the beginning of the 1980s. The tourist industry introduced wines to many who had not drunk this before. 

When Spain became a part of the European Union in 1986, this brought economic aid to the Spanish wine sector and new legal standards for wine were put in place. The 1990s gave way to the acceptance in the use of international varieties of grapes like the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, and the ban on watering which had been imposed during a drought period was lifted in 1996. This meant new places to plant, more grape varieties and more profitable ways of production. The golden age of Spanish wine had started. Now, a new generation of winemakers have quietly begun crafting spectacular wines, including organic, and experimenting with varieties that would have been unthinkable only a short time ago.

Wine remains an important commodity and an integral part of Spanish culture and tradition. So why not contribute to keeping this great history alive by enjoying a glass of wine in Spain. 

Who can resist, well I can’t, make mine a large glass of Rioja please.

Barres de Mercado- Market Bars

Despite the many gourmet bars and bistros in Spain, the long-standing market bars continue to stay busy still having a loyal clientele. Many of these bars have been going for decades. Opening from 7am until lunchtime, from Monday to Saturday. Serving drinks, including coffees, and tapas. Tourists have become braver over the years and do join the tussle for service in these busy bars, queuing is only in England! In the week, there are fewer younger people, although they make up for it over the weekend. Locals, come for a chat as much as to eat and drink. To catch up with friends and the latest gossip. Many traditional customs have been lost over the years but this does seem to be one that carries on. You tend to see more men than women sitting or standing having a pre- lunch Variado- which is a small dish of different tapas. With a lunchtime beer in hand, locals often stand up at the market bar to chat and watch the world go by.

The market is typically Spanish in atmosphere, where fishermen shout over crates of fish, business-men rub shoulders with butchers and in general, everyone talks with everyone. This relaxed level of socialising is what attracts the locals here every week, contributes to the buzz, and above all, makes the food fun. What would a slice of jamón be without a friendly Cómo va? This friendly, familiar approach found in the market halls brings the food sold to life, making the experience all the more enjoyable. Once, you have returned a few times, you will be included in the banter, but be warned you will be given a nickname of some kind, and teased a bit, which means you have been accepted. It helps to speak some Spanish even to just order a drink and its very much appreciated that you have had a go, even if you will most likely be given pointers on your Linguistic skills and made to repeat yourself until you get it correct. I personally love the colour and chaos of the markets, its not a quiet way to have a drink or a bite to eat, but certainly a great way to observe the culture of Spain. The standard of the food served is high and worth sampling.

In Majorca, I enjoy Buades, a family business in the S’Oliver Mercat which has been running for 40 years, they serve full platters of Ibérico ham and bread drizzled in olive oil, for which they are famous.

The San Juan mercado in the S’Escorxador is dedicated to serving-up international cuisine and is more of a gastronomic experience but is based on the market bars. Segmented into different stalls, you will enjoy perusing the variety of food on offer: from oysters to pintxos, to noodles and sushi, all tastes and appetites are catered to. Long tables with stools line the centre which allows for a sociable atmosphere where tourists and locals alike sit side by side. This is a good market to visit particularly in the evening as well as in the day time. As the hours are longer and full meals are served.

These markets bars are in many of the large covered food-halls and markets in Spain, some like the San Juan Mercado, in Majorca, are a mix of old and new cuisine and are of course are higher priced but still good value.

I hope these bars endure are not replaced by chains and fast food companies, as it would be a great lose indeed. 

Celebrating Foods from the Land

As I have mentioned in my previous blog posts, farming and the crops produced play a large part of the economy of Spain. Much of the produce for Europe is grown. Traditions are often passed on from generation to generation. Now some of the festas associated with food today do attract visitors and tourists are important financially but these festivals celebrating food and the land mean far more to the locals than just money.

The Mantaca- is a family affair, once a year, on this day the famous Black Majorcan pig – Porcella Negra is slaughtered, the butcher is the matador, every section of the pig is used and preparation tasks are allocated to all the family and guests, after the work is done, food and drink is offered to all those  taking part on the day and the evening is a festa of music and dancing after the hard work is done. In some ways this seems a bit gruesome to us, but in a farming community these customs were about the survival for the villages in the winter months and everyone helped. Rural traditions have gone into decline, but in 2019, in Campos, in Majorca, a day dedicated to the Balearic sausage- from the Majorcan black pig was started this is called the Feria de la Sobrasada. Many similar days take place and now these show the gastromery of the  local cuisine to tourists.

 In Extremadura in central Spain, El Festival Trasfornterizo del Gurumelo, is a festival for a rare mushroom local to the area. Gurumelo mushrooms are difficult to find so hundreds of people turn out to look for them and enjoy the food stalls, tasters and workshops.

Sa Festa d’s Melo in Villafranca De Bonnay in September, has taken place since 1994, the climax of the day been the Concurs d’Es Melo, the biggest melon competition, a highlight in the local farmers (Meloners) calendar, there’s also a melon eating competition as well as a melon lantern festival in the evening.

Many of the festas celebrating foods from the lands are linked to harvesting, a way of having some enjoyment after the hard work is done.

LLubi, also in the centre of the island (the Pla) there are bee-keeping traditions that have gone on for centuries. Honey was once only for the upper classes. Now in June, everyone can try foods, drink even soap made from honey.

In Colonia De Sant Jordi in April there is a festival to celebrate Ses Santines, giving tours of the saltworks and giving tasters of salt-cured foods and the many varieties of salt, which is a natural resource from the island.

Later on, in the year in October is the Feria Del Pimento in Felanitix, in honour or Red peppers a key ingredient in many of the local dishes.

Sa Pobla, in the centre of Majorca is famous for growing potatoes, many end up been sold in the UK.  in June there is an evening called Fra Nocturina de La Patatas. The main square, is filled with food stalls selling typical Majorcan dishes featuring Potato as a key ingredient like: Tumblet, Coca da Patatas and Bunyols but also more creative dishes like: Ice Cream, Potato and apple strudel and Potato Brownie. The prices are very affordable and are tapas sized so you can try lots of different dishes, it does get very busy.  I really enjoyed this night and tasted some very unusual food and was surprised at how much potatoes can be used in cooking.

During the year, you will be able to find a local festa for all sorts of different foods, herbs and drinks as well as local artisan markets with a range of local foods and delicacies. It is well worth going to these to sample a real taste of the local culture.

Heavenly Love Apples- Tomatoes

When Columbus returned from exploring America in 1500, he bought with him two apples: Earth apples which became potatoes and love apples which became tomatoes. Whilst Potatoes were successful straight away in Britain, the aromatic and slightly sweet taste of tomatoes was unpopular in most of Europe except Spain and because of the red colour were thought to be poisonous. 

Tomatoes were of Mexican origin. The Aztec name of Tomatl was adopted which changed to tomate. They were attributed to having aphrodisiac properties, so possibly for passionate Spaniards this was part of the attraction.

It is inconceivable to think of Spanish cuisine without tomatoes. All shapes and sizes are used: bush tomatoes from the coastline, vine tomatoes, beef tomatoes and yellow ramellet tomatoes. These are used in salads, passata, sauces, juices, cooked in many stews and preserved.  Ramellet tomatoes are dry- cultivated by hanging on strings in kitchens and larders, which is a tradition passed from mother to daughter.

 In Majorca, in 1840, when the vine pest destroyed the vines, tomatoes were cultivated instead as they were perfect to grow in the soil and sun-drenched climate giving economic survival. As well as being rich in Vitamin C, tomatoes contain beta-carotene which enables vitamin A, and this may also have added health benefits to the Mediterranean diet. When I lived in Spain for a short time picking tomatoes of the vine and eating them straight away was wonderful, the scent and flavour was amazing.

Ramullet tomatoes are the key ingredient in many popular dishes like Pa amb oli (In Catalonia this is Pa amb tomaquet) and Tumbet. They are also a conservation variety and in August, a festival is held to honour them. Tomatiga de Ramellet in Maria de la salut, in Majorca, is a night of tomato- related gastronomy.

Today in the UK we can now see the benefits to tomatoes that our ancestors didn’t. I think that British food has in the past been bland and the use of tomatoes does add richness, colour and flavour to our diet.