Barres de Mercado- Market Bars

Despite the many gourmet bars and bistros in Spain, the long-standing market bars continue to stay busy still having a loyal clientele. Many of these bars have been going for decades. Opening from 7am until lunchtime, from Monday to Saturday. Serving drinks, including coffees, and tapas. Tourists have become braver over the years and do join the tussle for service in these busy bars, queuing is only in England! In the week, there are fewer younger people, although they make up for it over the weekend. Locals, come for a chat as much as to eat and drink. To catch up with friends and the latest gossip. Many traditional customs have been lost over the years but this does seem to be one that carries on. You tend to see more men than women sitting or standing having a pre- lunch Variado- which is a small dish of different tapas. With a lunchtime beer in hand, locals often stand up at the market bar to chat and watch the world go by.

The market is typically Spanish in atmosphere, where fishermen shout over crates of fish, business-men rub shoulders with butchers and in general, everyone talks with everyone. This relaxed level of socialising is what attracts the locals here every week, contributes to the buzz, and above all, makes the food fun. What would a slice of jamón be without a friendly Cómo va? This friendly, familiar approach found in the market halls brings the food sold to life, making the experience all the more enjoyable. Once, you have returned a few times, you will be included in the banter, but be warned you will be given a nickname of some kind, and teased a bit, which means you have been accepted. It helps to speak some Spanish even to just order a drink and its very much appreciated that you have had a go, even if you will most likely be given pointers on your Linguistic skills and made to repeat yourself until you get it correct. I personally love the colour and chaos of the markets, its not a quiet way to have a drink or a bite to eat, but certainly a great way to observe the culture of Spain. The standard of the food served is high and worth sampling.

In Majorca, I enjoy Buades, a family business in the S’Oliver Mercat which has been running for 40 years, they serve full platters of Ibérico ham and bread drizzled in olive oil, for which they are famous.

The San Juan mercado in the S’Escorxador is dedicated to serving-up international cuisine and is more of a gastronomic experience but is based on the market bars. Segmented into different stalls, you will enjoy perusing the variety of food on offer: from oysters to pintxos, to noodles and sushi, all tastes and appetites are catered to. Long tables with stools line the centre which allows for a sociable atmosphere where tourists and locals alike sit side by side. This is a good market to visit particularly in the evening as well as in the day time. As the hours are longer and full meals are served.

These markets bars are in many of the large covered food-halls and markets in Spain, some like the San Juan Mercado, in Majorca, are a mix of old and new cuisine and are of course are higher priced but still good value.

I hope these bars endure are not replaced by chains and fast food companies, as it would be a great lose indeed. 

Tapas- a Taste of Spain

I think one of the things which best sums up the Spanish social life for me is Tapas or Pinchos. (A piece of) Appetizers or snacks which are often given free with a glass of wine or beer. These may be only small but are big on full of flavour.

 Life without tapas is like a heart without love

  B K S Iyengar- The foremost yoga teacher in the world during his lifetime.

 Drinking and eating with family and friends plays such a large role in the lives of my Spanish friends, meet you in the Plaza or square, is really just meet you in the bar. Now pubs and bars play a role in the UK too but in a very different way. In Spain, its more about the whole family meeting and eating and drinking, even children and grandparents are included. I think that is why the heavy drinking culture of young British and German holiday makers has grated so much on the locals of late. I can fully understand this myself. The Spanish government has had a crackdown on Alcohol- fuelled tourism with new alcohol and behavioural rules. Which hopefully will improve the night life of both the locals and other travellers.

Tapas, uses many of the ingredients Spain is famous for and is a good way to try local dishes: Small cubes of Tortilla, stuffed cherry tomatoes, olives, padron peppers, sardines, croquetas, patatas bravas and Jamon Serrano with melon. Full of vibrant colour and taste and very filling. 

Traditional bars have plates of tapas lined up and you choose a selection, often the choice is overwhelming. These are one or two mouthfuls on a cocktail stick. If you are eating out with friends several sharing dishes- Raciones- are left on the table with bread and olives (it is considered polite to always leave one olive in the bowl). Fish and seafood are popular especially on the coastlines: sardines, garlic prawns- Gambas al Ajillo, Calmares- battered squid and octopus are all great choices. Chorizo sausages, and thinly sliced serrano ham, which has been cured and dried are sold in the bars, you can see many of these hanging up. Images of these feature in many Instragram feeds.

Often cities and towns have a special weekly night for tapas- a bit like a bar crawl. In Palma, in Majorca, this is Ruta Martianas, every Tuesday night in the Old town/Sa Gerriana, these are smaller bars where the locals go, it can get very busy as its only a few euros for a drink and tapas. But it’s a great way to see the local culture and have a memorable cheap night out.

 Coca pizza a la Mallorquina is another good snack to have and differs from Italian pizza as it has no cheese. It is a flatbread using olive oil dough with seasonal vegetables, often sundried tomatoes and peppers and can also be made as a sweet version with fruit and nuts. It is cooked in a flat tin and cut into squares, been sold in Tapas bars or bakeries. It is very much part of Catalan cuisine; it was served at Festas like Easter but is now available all year round. It is one of my personal favorites so do try if you get the chance.  

Many local cookery schools offer courses on making tapas and food tours of local eateries and markets which are a wonderful way to spend a few hours and learn a few new things.