Con Pescado- With Fish

I have talked about the importance of fish in the Mediterranean diet before. In the UK, Fish and Chips is one of the most popular dishes, now whilst I am a big fan too, battered and fried fish with fried potatoes is not a healthy meal even with all the benefits of fish. When I googled fish, it brought up nearby Fish and Chip shops which says a lot.

A Mediterranean diet incorporates the traditional healthy living habits of people from countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea, including: Greece, Italy and Spain. The Mediterranean diet varies by country and region. But generally, it's high in vegetables, fruits, legumes, nuts, beans, cereals, grains, fish and unsaturated fats such as olive oil. It usually includes a low intake of meat and dairy foods. Fish are important in the Mediterranean diet, which recommends consuming more fish (at least twice a week) than meat. Fatty fish; mackerel, herring, sardines, albacore tuna, salmon and lake trout are all rich in omega-3 fatty acids. (A type of polyunsaturated fat that may reduce inflammation in the body)

Conveniently close to the Mediterranean Sea, it’s no surprise that people in the Mediterranean eat mostly locally sourced seafood. Seafood, both fish and shellfish, are consumed several times per week. Naturally, the fresher, the better when it comes to the quality and taste of seafood.

I added more fish to my diet, whilst staying in Spain. However, Spanish Pescaderías or fish markets can be very intimidating and very different to the fish counters in the UK. Whole fish are displayed on ice, with large shiny eyes staring up at you and gaping mouths revealing rows of razor-sharp teeth. So many varieties are displayed it’s difficult to choose and certainly a linguistic challenge to explain what you want to buy.

In Mallorca, most of the fish on sale, is imported from mainland Spain due to the local decline. However, there are still some local varieties especially appreciated by the Mallorcans. Perhaps the most famous is the Gamba Roja de Sóller or Sóller Red Prawn which is fished daily and brought to Port de Sóller, where they are sold at the local fish market. These prawns can be eaten raw in carpaccio or tartare, baked in salt, fried or grilled. The most sought-after variety of fish is the raor or razorfish, which is considered the most coveted and expensive fish in the Balearic Islands. There are also plenty of Mediterranean rockfish species such as the caproig or the anfòs which are commonly used in stews. Popular local recipes include lobster casserole, sea bass in rock salt, seafood rice and greixonera de peix, a hearty fish stew cooked in an earthenware bowl. Which is my favourite way of eating fish in Mallorca. Native Mallorcans prefer their fresh seafood grilled with just a bit of salt and lemon and if you are sitting close to the sea this is just perfect. My local friends took me to a seafood restaurant and the meal its self was very simple, grilled fish and local vegetables without any sauce, but the freshness of both made it one of the best meals I have every had. The Balearic Islands have a lot of wonderful fish restaurants for ever budget, many with lovely views.

In Malaga, fried fish called pescaíto is the backbone of typical Malaga cuisine. Served at restaurants and beach bars throughout the city, plates of pescaíto are part and parcel of any Malagueños lunch or supper. Given its perfect seaside location, it probably comes as no surprise that one of the most popular tapas in Malaga is a form of seafood. The beachfront bars known as Chiringuitos, grill sewers of seafood known as espetos, sardines being the most popular, directly over an open flame on a grill made of an old fishing boat. Freshly fished from Malaga bay and grilled to perfection. If you only eat one thing while you’re here, make it these. I love to go for a long walk by the seafront and the sight and wonderful aromas of the Chiringuitos make it an unforgettable experience. There was talk about these been banned, to public outcry as these are so much part of the coastline.

Its impossible to visit Spain without having Tapas, and Malaga’s boquerones fritos, which are crispy fried anchovies are delicious and I don’t like the salty little fish usually. Octopus is also popular in Tapas, I can't say that I like it all that much, but I think its important to at least try local dishes.

If you are in Spain do remember that not only is fish good for health but it will be totally delicious too particularly with a chilled glass of wine and a sea front view.

Horchata- Spanish Local Drink

Whilst I was staying in Valencia, I came across a local drink, it was really hot during my stay and I walked a lot, so finding this chilled, milk-like drink was perfect. At first, I thought it was almond milk, but it has a slightly different and distinctive taste. This was my first, and certainly not my last Horchata!

While Horchata de Chufa was popularized in Spain, it originated in North Africa as far back as 2400 B.C. The Moors brought it to Spain during the Muslim conquest. In Valencia it was given the name of Horchata, before that it was known as Kuunu aya.

Horchata or Orxata (in Valencian) Is a drink made from soaked, ground, and sweetened Tiger nuts it is similar in taste and appearance to various kinds of plant milk beverages. It originated at least as far back as 13th-century Valencia, where it is known as Horchata de Chufa. It is regaining popularity outside of Spain because of its numerous health benefits.  In a recent study it was shown to have high levels of resistant starches it’s also gluten and nut- free. This is a healthy milk substitute ideal for those who are dairy and lactose intolerant or vegan, it can also be used in tea, coffee, cooking, smoothies and anywhere else you would use milk. 

There are other delicious Horchata recipes in Latin America, but they’re made with other nuts and even with rice and some are not vegan. In the USA, Horchata, was the most popular drink of 2019. The coffee giant Starbucks have made a blended drink called the Horchata Frappuccino, made with almond milk, cinnamon dolce syrup and ice topped with whipped cream, caramel, cinnamon and sugar sprinkles. Clearly not as healthy as the original version or vegan!

While they are called Tiger nuts, they aren’t nuts at all, but are actually the tubers of a type of grass-like plants. With a flavour reminiscent of both coconut and almond, they earn their name from a tiger-striped exterior. They can be eaten freshly dug out of the ground, or roasted, boiled, or juiced. One of the hottest superfoods on the market, Tiger nuts are naturally sweet and are prebiotic which means they help your body to be able to more easily grow helpful probiotic bacteria also they are high in antioxidants, vitamins C and E and minerals such as iron, potassium, and magnesium. Tiger nuts were a vital component of our ancestors diet, the tiny tubers are high in fibre and low in calories and fat. So, as well as making a very tasty drink particularly chilled with ice on hot days, Tiger nuts have numerous health benefits so it’s really good for you too!

The traditional recipes are made with a lot of refined white sugar. So, I have found a healthy but delicious version for you to try instead. I have seen recipes that add other flavours, but personally I prefer the plain version. You can buy plain raw Tiger nuts from most Whole Foods and online retailers.

Horchata- Ingredients:

200g organic tiger nuts, 500ml filtered water, a cinnamon stick, lemon peel, any natural sweetener of your choice like 1 tsp honey or 4 Medjool Dates, optional grated cinnamon.

To make

Soak the Tiger nuts in water for at least 4-6 hours or overnight. Drain the Tiger nuts and blend them with 2 cups of water. (500 ml) Place the mixture in a glass jar, add a cinnamon stick and the peel of a lemon. Let the mixture stand in the fridge for at least 2 hours. Strain the Horchata using a cheesecloth over a large bowl and squeeze until all the liquid has drained. Blend it with the dates or your favourite natural sweetener. 

The Horchata favour will improve and develop if chilled in the fridge for a while. I like to add some ground cinnamon on top when ready to drink.

Keep in the fridge, it should store for 2 days. There is a lot of sediment that settles at the bottom, do not discard as this contains all the flavour and nutrients. Just shake up to mix the sediment back into the milk.

NB- I have tried a version with Almond milk, although it’s not traditional Horchata recipe by any means, it still has a Spanish flavour. You can use the recipe in the same way by making the milk with almonds instead of Tiger nuts.

Celebrating Foods from the Land

As I have mentioned in my previous blog posts, farming and the crops produced play a large part of the economy of Spain. Much of the produce for Europe is grown. Traditions are often passed on from generation to generation. Now some of the festas associated with food today do attract visitors and tourists are important financially but these festivals celebrating food and the land mean far more to the locals than just money.

The Mantaca- is a family affair, once a year, on this day the famous Black Majorcan pig – Porcella Negra is slaughtered, the butcher is the matador, every section of the pig is used and preparation tasks are allocated to all the family and guests, after the work is done, food and drink is offered to all those  taking part on the day and the evening is a festa of music and dancing after the hard work is done. In some ways this seems a bit gruesome to us, but in a farming community these customs were about the survival for the villages in the winter months and everyone helped. Rural traditions have gone into decline, but in 2019, in Campos, in Majorca, a day dedicated to the Balearic sausage- from the Majorcan black pig was started this is called the Feria de la Sobrasada. Many similar days take place and now these show the gastromery of the  local cuisine to tourists.

 In Extremadura in central Spain, El Festival Trasfornterizo del Gurumelo, is a festival for a rare mushroom local to the area. Gurumelo mushrooms are difficult to find so hundreds of people turn out to look for them and enjoy the food stalls, tasters and workshops.

Sa Festa d’s Melo in Villafranca De Bonnay in September, has taken place since 1994, the climax of the day been the Concurs d’Es Melo, the biggest melon competition, a highlight in the local farmers (Meloners) calendar, there’s also a melon eating competition as well as a melon lantern festival in the evening.

Many of the festas celebrating foods from the lands are linked to harvesting, a way of having some enjoyment after the hard work is done.

LLubi, also in the centre of the island (the Pla) there are bee-keeping traditions that have gone on for centuries. Honey was once only for the upper classes. Now in June, everyone can try foods, drink even soap made from honey.

In Colonia De Sant Jordi in April there is a festival to celebrate Ses Santines, giving tours of the saltworks and giving tasters of salt-cured foods and the many varieties of salt, which is a natural resource from the island.

Later on, in the year in October is the Feria Del Pimento in Felanitix, in honour or Red peppers a key ingredient in many of the local dishes.

Sa Pobla, in the centre of Majorca is famous for growing potatoes, many end up been sold in the UK.  in June there is an evening called Fra Nocturina de La Patatas. The main square, is filled with food stalls selling typical Majorcan dishes featuring Potato as a key ingredient like: Tumblet, Coca da Patatas and Bunyols but also more creative dishes like: Ice Cream, Potato and apple strudel and Potato Brownie. The prices are very affordable and are tapas sized so you can try lots of different dishes, it does get very busy.  I really enjoyed this night and tasted some very unusual food and was surprised at how much potatoes can be used in cooking.

During the year, you will be able to find a local festa for all sorts of different foods, herbs and drinks as well as local artisan markets with a range of local foods and delicacies. It is well worth going to these to sample a real taste of the local culture.

Tapas- a Taste of Spain

I think one of the things which best sums up the Spanish social life for me is Tapas or Pinchos. (A piece of) Appetizers or snacks which are often given free with a glass of wine or beer. These may be only small but are big on full of flavour.

 Life without tapas is like a heart without love

  B K S Iyengar- The foremost yoga teacher in the world during his lifetime.

 Drinking and eating with family and friends plays such a large role in the lives of my Spanish friends, meet you in the Plaza or square, is really just meet you in the bar. Now pubs and bars play a role in the UK too but in a very different way. In Spain, its more about the whole family meeting and eating and drinking, even children and grandparents are included. I think that is why the heavy drinking culture of young British and German holiday makers has grated so much on the locals of late. I can fully understand this myself. The Spanish government has had a crackdown on Alcohol- fuelled tourism with new alcohol and behavioural rules. Which hopefully will improve the night life of both the locals and other travellers.

Tapas, uses many of the ingredients Spain is famous for and is a good way to try local dishes: Small cubes of Tortilla, stuffed cherry tomatoes, olives, padron peppers, sardines, croquetas, patatas bravas and Jamon Serrano with melon. Full of vibrant colour and taste and very filling. 

Traditional bars have plates of tapas lined up and you choose a selection, often the choice is overwhelming. These are one or two mouthfuls on a cocktail stick. If you are eating out with friends several sharing dishes- Raciones- are left on the table with bread and olives (it is considered polite to always leave one olive in the bowl). Fish and seafood are popular especially on the coastlines: sardines, garlic prawns- Gambas al Ajillo, Calmares- battered squid and octopus are all great choices. Chorizo sausages, and thinly sliced serrano ham, which has been cured and dried are sold in the bars, you can see many of these hanging up. Images of these feature in many Instragram feeds.

Often cities and towns have a special weekly night for tapas- a bit like a bar crawl. In Palma, in Majorca, this is Ruta Martianas, every Tuesday night in the Old town/Sa Gerriana, these are smaller bars where the locals go, it can get very busy as its only a few euros for a drink and tapas. But it’s a great way to see the local culture and have a memorable cheap night out.

 Coca pizza a la Mallorquina is another good snack to have and differs from Italian pizza as it has no cheese. It is a flatbread using olive oil dough with seasonal vegetables, often sundried tomatoes and peppers and can also be made as a sweet version with fruit and nuts. It is cooked in a flat tin and cut into squares, been sold in Tapas bars or bakeries. It is very much part of Catalan cuisine; it was served at Festas like Easter but is now available all year round. It is one of my personal favorites so do try if you get the chance.  

Many local cookery schools offer courses on making tapas and food tours of local eateries and markets which are a wonderful way to spend a few hours and learn a few new things.

Markets- Indoor and Outdoor

I love visiting markets, as a child my grandmother often took me and my sister to our local market, so this has stuck with me as a favourite memory. Today in the UK many of the original indoor markets have closed but these are now having a revival as well as numerous farmers markets, which I think is great as this is encouraging local businesses.

In Spain, the markets both inside and outside are a riot of colour and a buzz of activity, a celebration of the Spanish love of good food and drink. The array of fresh produce, seafood, meats, breads, delicatessens, wine, spices, freshly squeezed fruit juices and cheese are wonderful I can smell the oranges and lemons and fresh bread in my head,  It makes me hungry just thinking about it!

Many of the famous markets are tourist attractions however, the amazing architecture of La Boqueria in Barcelona, with 200 stalls is the oldest and largest market, and the Art Nouveau inspired Mercado Central in Valencia are still worth going to see. Perfect to have tapas and a glass of wine or Hotcha and Churros and watch the world go by and one of the best ways to observe the local culture.

I try to go to the markets that the locals visit, the produce is better and there is a chance to practise my language skills: In Mallorca: Santa Maria Del Cami is a small outdoor market on Sundays with a good selection of Organic vegetables, the Market in Pollenca also on Sunday is more expensive but more varied in produce and it’s a beautiful town to visit. Arta, on Thursdays has an Authentic craft and Artisan market, which is a big step up from the other weekly markets, which tend to have stock imported from China and are really just for tourists. If you do go to the larger markets like Inca  always haggle because the prices have been inflated, you could end up paying half the marked price if you do.  The covered markets:Mercat de Oliver in the centre of Palma and Mercat De Santa Catalina (Food Co-op) are both good markets for local foods and are surrounded by small eateries. In Madrid, Mercado San Miguel is a lively market to eat and drink and perfect for the day and evening. In Malaga the Mercado Central De Atarazanas is away from the main city but well worth a short walk as this is an upcoming area, with smaller independent shops and bars and this lively market has a stunning glass arch.  

Many hotels and travel companies do offer trips to local markets but if you can go on your own do, as you will find this to be a much more authentic experience.

Living like a local

Tourism has changed over the years from the standard package holiday, the worldwide web is now full of travel blogs and rough guides. The success of Airbnb and its various copycats reinforces the fact that many of us are looking for a unique or authentic experience rather than just two weeks in the sun.

A few years back I felt I needed a major change, life had become dull and predictable. I had some savings and was able to take a few months off work so was in a very fortunate position. I decided to spend time in Spain having enjoyed previous trips and felt that the passion of a Latin country would re-light my creativity. Over the months I travelled, I met many wonderful people not just Spaniards, but Americans, French, German, Dutch and English ex-pats, many of whom I still keep in touch with. I found that the same things matter whichever country you visit: family, health, work, pets and homes. We are all united in the things that are really important.

Living like a local and staying in a hotel are two very different things, what I gave up in comfort, I gained tenfold in experiencing the culture. I was invited into people’s homes, introduced to local foods and drinks, taught to speak the language, went to fiestas, markets, local dances, was taken on trips to the countryside and beautiful beaches. (Away from the typical tourist areas) The warmth of the welcome that I received will stay with me always.

If you can, even for one day, try eating in a local rather than a tourist restaurant or hotel. Or visit a small village or town preferably on market day when these small places really come to life and you will meet some wonderful characters!

I don’t know when I will be able to travel again it could be a year or more from now but the memories of my travels will stay with me in my heart forever.