On my journey around Spain in particularly Majorca I got to
try much of the local cuisine, now I didn’t love everything I tried, Gazpacho
for one, I don’t really get the idea of a cold soup, but I tried some wonderful
local dishes that I would highly recommend and will tell you about in more
detail. Tapas is a great way of sampling a little of something, a bit like
putting a toe in the water.
Spanish (particularly Majorcan) cuisine is strongly
influenced by Muslin/Moorish cooking and many of the foods regarded as Spanish
were Arabic in origin. Because they missed many of their sweet and spicy
flavours from home the Arabs introduced; almonds, apricots, pine nuts, capers,
aniseed and cinnamon. The irrigation
systems used by the Arab’s, benefited Majorcan farming greatly meaning that
fruits like: apples, pears, cherries, peaches, apricots and pomegranates could
then be grown in the climate and soil conditions. It was Spanish seafarers, when
travelling the world, who returned with pineapples, grapefruit, lemons and
clementine’s. The Roman empire had also brought its influences as well with fig
trees, Asian in origin, despite all this there remains a distinct Majorcan
cuisine. Food and drink are very much part of the Spanish culture. The ocean surrounding
the island brings a bounty of fish and seafood, the Pla, is the rural heartland
of the island with fields, almond and carob trees and livestock. The tramuntana
with its olive trees and Valley of Gold, with long rows of fragrant orange
trees. The vineyards around Binnissalem where you find the oldest wine estates are
becoming internationally known.
In Majorca, I was fortunate to be taken for meals in local
restaurants and invited into the homes of local people. The various ingredients
were explained to me and the cooking methods.
For many years’ restaurants have catered to the tastes of tourists. I am
happy to see that authentic dishes are been introduced once more. I think that
for too long many of the local dishes have been seen as peasant food however,
these dishes use local and seasonal produce and although at times are simple in
technique and appearance are also really delicious. The tastes of tourists are
changing and they want to try food which is more genuine. In the cosmopolitan
city of Palma, with the mix of old and new, top chefs like Marc Fosh are basing
Michelin star cuisine on traditional, classic dishes.
Sitting down together for a meal is something I very much
enjoy with my own family, its very much about a chance to catch up and talk
about the day as well as eating. A typical home-cooked meal would most likely
be a stew or rice dish placed in the centre with a salad, bread and side dishes
like fried green peppers. (Padron) Two of my favourites are Sopes Mallorquines
and Arroz Brut (dirty rice). Sopes Mallorquines is a slow cooked vegetable stew
with Pan Moreno rye bread in the bottom, this has cabbage, peas, onion, leeks, french
beans, garlic and sweet paprika, my Majorcan friend tells me that usually you
put in whatever you have in your fridge or cupboard. Frito Mallorquin is
similar with peppers, onions, artichokes, potatoes, aubergine and lamb or
liver. Arroz Brut is like a paella but uses rabbit or chicken liver and is more
like a rice soaked in meat stock. Tumbet is like Ratatouille, with potaes,
peppers, aubergine, onion and garlic and can be a main meal or tapas.
Pa- Amb- Oli- is bread with tomatoes and olive oil and
garlic, it can be eaten for breakfast or as a snack and there are opposing
views of how to make it as Catalans and Majorcans differ on their views,
however The way I was shown is taking a slice of Pan Moreno rye bread, this can
be toasted, rubbing a peeled raw garlic over then the pulp of half a tomato and
then drizzling with olive oil. Its almost a performance but just wonderful with
a glass of wine.
Sobrasada is a cured pork sausage softer than chorizo so
more like a spread. This should be made from the Black pig- Porc Negre. The
sausages are seasoned with paprika, salt and pebre vermell. (Ground dried picant
Red peppers these give the red colour) There are several sizes; LLonganissa,
Cular and the largest are bufetes. Look for Sobrassada de Mallorca de Cerdo
Negro as these are still made in the genuine way.
Vegetation and Vegan food are becoming more popular but many
of the traditional dishes are based round meat like slow cooked Majorcan lamb,
with rosemary, thyme and garlic, sucking pig- Porcella and botifarrons-a blood sausage quite like black pudding.
A visit to Majorca would not be complete without trying
Ensaimada’s which are a flaky pastry using a flour and lard-based dough, siam
is lard, this is rolled thinly then coiled into a spiral, visit Forn des Teatre
or the Old Town in Palma. In Valldemosa, they have a variation which is Coca de Patatas, which is a sweet potato bun using lard and sugar. I will post recipes at
a later time. Both are great with a coffee if you have a sweet tooth like me!
Many foods take me back to Majorca instantly: tomatoes,
peppers, figs, oranges, almonds and olives. I have been involved in growing and
picking these and the fragrances and colours always make me feel happy and warm
on cold, grey winter days in the UK.
I think that the enjoyment of eating with others and
preparing simple food with local ingredients and love is at the heart of
Majorcan cooking.
