The Joy of Shopping in Brocantes- French Second-Hand Markets

Brocantes are regular weekend events where a brocanteur (the French word ‘brocanteur’ means ‘broker) sells various antique and vintage goods. In France, Brocantes are also known as Puces or flea markets, which is a term that originated in Paris back in the 19th century. A visit to a Brocante market can be the highlight of a trip to France. It is such a lively encounter with everyday French culture and a fun way to spend a few hours. It’s a great place to find collectables or pick up a unique souvenir. These can also be known as vide-greniers a bit like our house clearance sales. These events which are basically emptying the attics, take place in many of the larger towns about once a month and are popular throughout France, often on Sundays. Some are all year round but the majority are held in the spring to autumn months. The size of the market can range from just a few stalls to the enormous markets such as the Braderie in Lille.

The French are a nation of recyclers and hate to throw something away if they think it can be 're-loved', and this is what drives their passion for second hand-markets. With some of Europe’s, most storied and well-stocked antique fairs and flea markets, France is a must do for antique lovers as you'll have an opportunity to pick up some wonderful or unusual items that you simply won’t see in the shops. Visitors frequently uncover precious finds that add that extra touch to their home and heart. Others simply enjoy the thrill of the hunt, whether that quest is for a specific item or a general rambling through stalls and streets, trying to find the next diamond in the rough. The best deals are to be found at the street markets, the smaller villages will have lower prices that larger cities and towns, and outside of Paris, you’ll notice a huge drop in the prices.

Rather like highbrow car boot sales or flea markets. Traders spread their wares across pavements and sell everything from vintage buttons to antique furniture. In recent years, Brocantes have become very fashionable and vintage sellers have become wise to the fact that tourists flock to them looking for a bargain. Items don’t tend to be priced and haggling is expected, so don’t be shy when it comes to battling for the price you want! Generally, Brocante dealers are kind, full of stories and more than willing to drop a few euros when asked for le dernier prix.

Many of the street markets will also sell on food, so you can have a glass of wine or coffee and watch the world go by too, it’s a lovely way to spend a morning or day out.

Great Markets to See

Braderie is one of the largest in Europe and is in Lille. It takes place in the first week of September and there are more than 10,000 stalls.

Cours Saleya on Mondays, in Nice has around 200 flea market vendors selling their wares. This is a fairly high-quality market; however, bargain hunters can also score a good find, particularly in the adjacent place Pierre Gauthier, where odds and ends are piled on the ground.

Réderie d’automne in Amiens. This yearly autumnal event takes place in October for one day. This market attracts 2,000 vendors and receives tens of thousands of visitors each year. This is one of the premier spots to hunt for antiques or simply take in the spectacle. It starts very early in the morning.

Villeurbanne Flea Market in Lyon on Sunday mornings has 400 stalls selling rustic goods of all kinds. The set-ups are a bit informal, but its crammed with exciting finds and great to rummage through.

To locate markets in the area you are due to visit, the website www.brocabrac.fr is helpful as it lists brocantes by the area or by the day of the week. L’Agenda des Brocantes is the most popular calendar of events, see  www.agendadesbrocantes.fr for details.

Barres de Mercado- Market Bars

Despite the many gourmet bars and bistros in Spain, the long-standing market bars continue to stay busy still having a loyal clientele. Many of these bars have been going for decades. Opening from 7am until lunchtime, from Monday to Saturday. Serving drinks, including coffees, and tapas. Tourists have become braver over the years and do join the tussle for service in these busy bars, queuing is only in England! In the week, there are fewer younger people, although they make up for it over the weekend. Locals, come for a chat as much as to eat and drink. To catch up with friends and the latest gossip. Many traditional customs have been lost over the years but this does seem to be one that carries on. You tend to see more men than women sitting or standing having a pre- lunch Variado- which is a small dish of different tapas. With a lunchtime beer in hand, locals often stand up at the market bar to chat and watch the world go by.

The market is typically Spanish in atmosphere, where fishermen shout over crates of fish, business-men rub shoulders with butchers and in general, everyone talks with everyone. This relaxed level of socialising is what attracts the locals here every week, contributes to the buzz, and above all, makes the food fun. What would a slice of jamón be without a friendly Cómo va? This friendly, familiar approach found in the market halls brings the food sold to life, making the experience all the more enjoyable. Once, you have returned a few times, you will be included in the banter, but be warned you will be given a nickname of some kind, and teased a bit, which means you have been accepted. It helps to speak some Spanish even to just order a drink and its very much appreciated that you have had a go, even if you will most likely be given pointers on your Linguistic skills and made to repeat yourself until you get it correct. I personally love the colour and chaos of the markets, its not a quiet way to have a drink or a bite to eat, but certainly a great way to observe the culture of Spain. The standard of the food served is high and worth sampling.

In Majorca, I enjoy Buades, a family business in the S’Oliver Mercat which has been running for 40 years, they serve full platters of Ibérico ham and bread drizzled in olive oil, for which they are famous.

The San Juan mercado in the S’Escorxador is dedicated to serving-up international cuisine and is more of a gastronomic experience but is based on the market bars. Segmented into different stalls, you will enjoy perusing the variety of food on offer: from oysters to pintxos, to noodles and sushi, all tastes and appetites are catered to. Long tables with stools line the centre which allows for a sociable atmosphere where tourists and locals alike sit side by side. This is a good market to visit particularly in the evening as well as in the day time. As the hours are longer and full meals are served.

These markets bars are in many of the large covered food-halls and markets in Spain, some like the San Juan Mercado, in Majorca, are a mix of old and new cuisine and are of course are higher priced but still good value.

I hope these bars endure are not replaced by chains and fast food companies, as it would be a great lose indeed. 

Markets- Indoor and Outdoor

I love visiting markets, as a child my grandmother often took me and my sister to our local market, so this has stuck with me as a favourite memory. Today in the UK many of the original indoor markets have closed but these are now having a revival as well as numerous farmers markets, which I think is great as this is encouraging local businesses.

In Spain, the markets both inside and outside are a riot of colour and a buzz of activity, a celebration of the Spanish love of good food and drink. The array of fresh produce, seafood, meats, breads, delicatessens, wine, spices, freshly squeezed fruit juices and cheese are wonderful I can smell the oranges and lemons and fresh bread in my head,  It makes me hungry just thinking about it!

Many of the famous markets are tourist attractions however, the amazing architecture of La Boqueria in Barcelona, with 200 stalls is the oldest and largest market, and the Art Nouveau inspired Mercado Central in Valencia are still worth going to see. Perfect to have tapas and a glass of wine or Hotcha and Churros and watch the world go by and one of the best ways to observe the local culture.

I try to go to the markets that the locals visit, the produce is better and there is a chance to practise my language skills: In Mallorca: Santa Maria Del Cami is a small outdoor market on Sundays with a good selection of Organic vegetables, the Market in Pollenca also on Sunday is more expensive but more varied in produce and it’s a beautiful town to visit. Arta, on Thursdays has an Authentic craft and Artisan market, which is a big step up from the other weekly markets, which tend to have stock imported from China and are really just for tourists. If you do go to the larger markets like Inca  always haggle because the prices have been inflated, you could end up paying half the marked price if you do.  The covered markets:Mercat de Oliver in the centre of Palma and Mercat De Santa Catalina (Food Co-op) are both good markets for local foods and are surrounded by small eateries. In Madrid, Mercado San Miguel is a lively market to eat and drink and perfect for the day and evening. In Malaga the Mercado Central De Atarazanas is away from the main city but well worth a short walk as this is an upcoming area, with smaller independent shops and bars and this lively market has a stunning glass arch.  

Many hotels and travel companies do offer trips to local markets but if you can go on your own do, as you will find this to be a much more authentic experience.