Despite the many gourmet bars and bistros
in Spain, the long-standing market bars continue to stay busy still having a
loyal clientele. Many of these bars have been going for decades. Opening from
7am until lunchtime, from Monday to Saturday. Serving drinks, including coffees,
and tapas. Tourists have become braver over the years and do join the tussle
for service in these busy bars, queuing is only in England! In the week, there
are fewer younger people, although they make up for it over the weekend. Locals,
come for a chat as much as to eat and drink. To catch up with friends and the
latest gossip. Many traditional customs have been lost over the years but this
does seem to be one that carries on. You tend to see more men than women
sitting or standing having a pre- lunch Variado- which is a small dish of different
tapas. With a lunchtime beer in hand, locals often stand up at the market bar to
chat and watch the world go by.
The market is typically Spanish in
atmosphere, where fishermen shout over crates of fish, business-men rub
shoulders with butchers and in general, everyone talks with everyone. This
relaxed level of socialising is what attracts the locals here every week,
contributes to the buzz, and above all, makes the food fun. What would a slice
of jamón be without a friendly Cómo va? This friendly, familiar approach
found in the market halls brings the food sold to life, making the experience all
the more enjoyable. Once, you have returned a few times, you will be included
in the banter, but be warned you will be given a nickname of some kind, and
teased a bit, which means you have been accepted. It helps to speak some Spanish
even to just order a drink and its very much appreciated that you have had a go, even
if you will most likely be given pointers on your Linguistic skills and made to
repeat yourself until you get it correct. I personally love the colour and chaos
of the markets, its not a quiet way to have a drink or a bite to eat, but
certainly a great way to observe the culture of Spain. The standard of the food
served is high and worth sampling.
In Majorca, I enjoy Buades, a
family business in the S’Oliver Mercat which has been running for
40 years, they serve full platters of Ibérico ham and bread drizzled in olive
oil, for which they are famous.
The San
Juan mercado in the S’Escorxador is dedicated to serving-up
international cuisine and is more of a gastronomic experience but is based on the
market bars. Segmented into different stalls, you will enjoy perusing the
variety of food on offer: from oysters to pintxos, to noodles and sushi, all tastes
and appetites are catered to. Long tables with stools line the centre which
allows for a sociable atmosphere where tourists and locals alike sit side by
side. This is a good market to visit particularly in the evening as well as in
the day time. As the hours are longer and full meals are served.
These
markets bars are in many of the large covered food-halls and markets in Spain,
some like the San Juan Mercado, in Majorca, are a mix of old and new cuisine and
are of course are higher priced but still good value.
I hope these bars endure are not replaced
by chains and fast food companies, as it would be a great lose indeed.
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