Mallorcan Almonds

The Moors planted the first Almond trees in 903, they missed the soft, velvety taste of an almond tart at the end of the meal. There are now an estimated 5 million almond trees all over the island, almonds are a major crop and contribute to the island’s revenue.

 In the 1880s, the vineyards were destroyed by Phylloxera- a tiny yellow wine pest, which had destroyed vineyards in France, Portugal, Germany and Italy. Desperate Mallorcan farmers decided to plant less vulnerable almond trees in the destroyed vineyards. Almond trees also promised stable prices and had a constant market. 

Today almost 50% of the almond growth is exported abroad mainly to Belgium and Germany. However, the problems for mallorcan farmers are not over, almonds may become an endangered species. An infection hit the island over a decade ago and according to scientist Eduardo Moralejo, an estimated 150,000 Mallorca almond trees have succumbed to the disease since 2010. Moralejo's conservative guess is that somewhere between 800,000 and 950,000 trees are affected. That’s 70% of all almond trees are currently infected, though official numbers come in at a significantly lower 50%. Happily, the disease is finally being taken seriously and a number of entities are coming up with creative ways to combat the problem. Studies are being conducted all over Europe that are looking to eradicate the bacteria’s power and save the trees. Mallorca’s almond trees are in danger but measures are being taken to ensure they are not completely wiped off the face of the island. With the hard work and resourcefulness of Mallorcan farmers, I feel sure that Mallorca almonds will continue to be enjoyed for generations to come.

From January to February, large parts of the Monturi plains are transformed by sweet almond trees, Prunus Dulcis, farmers here have been harvesting almond trees there for centuries. After two years when a sapling has produced at least a few hundred blossoms and the trunk has reached the right size, blossoms of the desired variety are grafted on. The trees will reach full maturity after about 10 years. The harvest time is in late summer. In a similar way to olives, traditional farming methods are used: the nuts are knocked off the tree to fall onto the net under the tree. The kernels are then removed from the hard shells ready to make biscuits, chocolate, nougat, oil, liqueur. 

Mallorca almonds are said to be the best in the world, and the almond blossom is a major attraction for visitors to the island. The delicately scented Pink and White blossom adds a special beauty to the landscape. There are many different native varieties of almond cultivated on the island of Mallorca and the denomination Mallorca is used to cover all the varieties produced there. These nuts are characterized by their pleasant flavour, by the complete absence of bitter almonds, and by their high-fat content. These high-quality almonds have meant that locals have been cooking with almonds for hundreds of years. In my last blog we talked about the nutritional benefits of almonds but they are also versatile and taste wonderful. Roasted, toasted, smoked or blanched, almonds are available to buy everywhere on the island. Traditional Mallorcan cuisine uses almonds with fish, with meat and in sweet dishes.  As in mainline Spain, almonds are popular in various desserts. At Christmas, Turron is considered a great favourite. Gato d´Ametlla, is the delectable almond cake that Mallorca is known for, I have attached a recipe below, although there are lots of variations to make.

Mallorcan almond flour-free cake: Serves 8

Ingredients:

7oz/200g blanched almonds, 5 large eggs, separated, 7oz/200g caster sugar, finely grated orange zest 1 teaspoon, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, butter for greasing the tin, and icing sugar for dusting. Orange zest to decorate is optional.

Preheat the oven to 170°C/325F/gas mark 3. Grease a 23cm round cake tin with butter and dust it out with flour. Put the almonds into a food processor and grind them to a very fine powder. Using an electric whisk, beat the egg yolks and sugar together in a bowl for 4–5 minutes until pale and creamy. Fold in the almonds, orange zest and cinnamon. The mixture will be quite stiff. Clean the beaters of the whisk, then use to beat the egg whites in a large clean bowl until they form soft peaks. Add two large spoonsful of the egg whites to the mixture to loosen it slightly, then gently fold in the remainder. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 40 minutes until a skewer, pushed into the centre of the cake, comes away clean. Leave the cake to cool in the tin, then turn out and dust with icing sugar. To add some extra Majorcan spirit, grate orange over the top!

As I mentioned before, almonds are a remarkable source of income to the agricultural Mallorca and therefore very important to pay tribute to, several events are held on the island to celebrate almonds. In the town of Son Servera, you can visit an almond-themed fair coinciding with the blossoming of the trees. The Fira de la Flor d’Ametler is held in February in the grounds of Ses Cases de Ca s’Hereu, a finca in the town of Son Servera dating from the 18th century. You most certainly should never leave Mallorca without having tasted the Gato d´Ametlla eaten with almond ice-cream and a coffee accompanied by a small glass of Flor d’Ametla the famous liqueur made of almonds. This fair is known to be one of the most interesting fairs on the Mallorcan cultural scene.

Fira de la llet d’Ametlla is a Yuletide almond milk festival on Mallorca in December. The sweet flavour of almonds makes them ideal for milk- making. Celebrated in Pla de na Tesa in Marratxí, local almond farmers take their produce into town to allow people to taste almonds and almond-based dishes that are deep-rooted in traditional Mallorca cuisine. You can wander around the Aristan stalls and look at the old vehicles, traditional almond-farming machinery and animals and see presentations on growing almonds and the subsequent production of almond milk. It’s also a great chance to buy some unique Christmas presents from artisan makers.

I always love the chance to combine a cultural experience with some eating and shopping!

Almonds- an Ancient Superfood For the 21st Century

The Greeks were the first to grow almonds in Europe. The Greek scholar, Theophrastus, mentions in his history of plants, written about 300 BC, that almond trees were the only trees in Greece that produced blossoms before leaves. Greek physician Hippocrates used almonds to treat coughs and regarded them as good for the bowel and an aid to healing lung infection. The Romans, who referred to almonds as “the Greek nut,” brought almonds to Italy around 200 BC. The Romans used almonds primarily in the form of sweets and showered newlyweds with them as a fertility charm. The Bible makes numerous references to almonds as an object of value and symbol of hope. Throughout history, almonds have maintained religious, ethnic and social significance. The Bible's Book of Numbers tells the story of Aaron's rod that blossomed and bore almonds, giving it the symbolism of divine approval. As far back as 3,000 BC, Almond trees were domesticated and have been part of Mediterranean culture for millennia. Originally from central and southwest Asia, almonds became a staple food there that helped sustain the long journeys of nomadic tribes.

Arabs and Moors made extensive use of almonds in their cuisine. When the Moors conquered Spain in 711 AD, they brought almonds with them, along with the techniques of growing and irrigating the trees that produced the nuts. Since the Moors were not driven out of Spain until 1492, almonds and almond trees were well established in both the local cuisine and landscape by the time they left.

Approximately 1.7 million tons of almonds are produced every year around the world. Spain is the second-largest almond producer in the world after the United States, it was Spanish missionaries who brought almonds to the United States in the 18th century. Andalusia and Valencia are its main producing regions. Thanks to its well-advertised health benefits, almonds are enjoying global demand with an increase in health- conscious diets, they are increasingly popular and the demand is booming.  They are used as dairy and wheat alternatives, as they are a source of protein for vegetarians and vegans, almond flour can replace wheat flour in gluten-free diets for coeliac's and people who wish to avoid gluten.  Almond milk is a common substitute for cow’s milk for people who are lactose intolerant. In actual fact, almonds are not a nut but a fruit similar to the peach. It is said that just to eat a handful a day with give you good health for life. Almonds contain lots of healthy fats, fibre, protein, magnesium and vitamin E. The health benefits of almonds include lower blood sugar levels, reduced blood pressure and lower cholesterol levels. They can also reduce hunger and promote weight loss, so make for a healthier snack.

 Almond trees add a special magical charm to the landscapes of Spain. Some are White and others are Pink. The White blossoms produce sweet almonds, while the Pink ones produce the bitter variety. (The latter contain cyanide which must be removed before consuming the extract of these nuts) The colours and scents of their blossoms bring the springtime countryside to life from mid-January to early March. It’s an amazing experience to drive through large expanses areas of land and Mediterranean coastal areas, cultivated with elegant almond trees, even more wonderful is to walk through the groves and smell the delicate fragrant flowers and see the beautiful trees in full bloom. I have been fortunate to see this several times and it is one of the most glorious spring scenes you will ever see.

In the Mediterranean area, almond trees can live for between 60-80 years, sometimes even as long as 100 years, they are very robust, long-lived trees like the olive tree. It is one of the main trees cultivated for industrial purposes along the Mediterranean coast. Both trees share similar climatic requirements an average temperature between 15-18 °C, mild winters and hot summers and no more than 600 mm of rain. They complement olive tree harvesting since the same tree “shaker” machines can be used on both crops using the same machinery and so are often grown together.

Today, In Spain, farmers are replacing growing wheat with planting almond trees. There are many advantages to this; almond trees are relatively low-maintenance needing little or no watering and they thrive in the dry climates of the Mediterranean area. Although, the tree may take two to three years before generating nuts, it can continue generating fruits for over fifty years.

Over a hundred different varieties are grown in Spain today, but there are five major commercial types. They are defined and selected from among the top-quality varieties: Marcona, Largueta, Planeta, Valencias and Comunas. Three of them – Marcona, Largueta, and Planeta are native Spanish varieties. The typical Spanish almond is known for its properties appealing to the senses particularly its sweet flavour which differentiates it from almonds of other origin. The quality of Spanish almonds is exceptional because of their higher oil content, making them juicier, smoother and more intensely flavoured.

The bitter almond- Prunus Amara- is used primarily for flavouring and it is the sweet almond- Prunus Dulcis that we eat. The Bitter almonds are also a valued ingredient in cosmetics.

Almonds are a special treat in Spain. The Spanish love to flavour desserts and other traditional dishes with almonds:  Ajo Blanco is the chilled white gazpacho soup based on ground almonds, crushed almonds go into sauces such as pepitoria and they feature in many popular tapas. Garapiñadas are the crunchy caramelized almonds sold on street stands, which are very tasty indeed.

Almonds are used for special occasions and linked to occasions like Easter and Christmas: Panellets, are a traditional sweet from the region of Cataluña, prepared for All Saints Day or Día de Todos los Santos. They are made of equal parts of ground almonds and sugar formed into balls and decorated with pine nuts, or rolled cocoa powder, candied cherries or coconut flakes. A St. James Cake, named in honour of Santiago the patron saint of Spain, is a moist and light almond cake with less than one cup of flour. This is sold in Santiago de Compostela and is popular with tourists and pilgrims alike.  Turrón is a Christmas sweet you will find throughout Andalusia and is nougat made from roasted almonds and honey. Polvorones are eaten only at Christmas, they are round biscuits with almonds inside. Pan de Cadiz is a variety of marzipan, this almond-sugar-egg sweet is stuffed with sugar-coated fruits. All very delicious if not very good for your waistline.

I hope you would agree that almonds are still a sweet, superfood in our times, not just for the Greeks, Romans and Moors!

Olives- Food Tourism

As I mentioned in my last blog, food tourism has become a large market, even Airbnb offering food tours, cooking classes and traditional meals cooked by locals. I have been fortunate to spend time, living and working on a Finca in Majorcan which had olive trees and Cortijo in Andalucía which had a vineyard and bodega, olive, almond and pomegranate trees and gardens growing various vegetables and fruits. Which were used to feed the guests who were staying.

A Finca is generally a decent sized plot of land usually over 2000 m2 that may or may not have a building on it. A Cortijo is a large working farm of usually more than 10 hectares with a farm house building which would include minimum of one main building with two wings giving it a “U” shape. These often have a courtyard in the middle. This is derived from the Latin word- cohorticulum, a diminutive of cohors, meaning courtyard. Many Cortijo’s became deserted following General Franco's Plan de Estabilización and the abandonment of traditional agricultural practices by the local youth that swept over rural Spain during the second half of the 20th century. However, many of these are not been renovated by the English and Germans for tourism and small specialist farms.

The wide variety of olives produced in Spain is combined with the great variety of existing microclimates throughout the country to produce an extensive variety of oils, 250 in total. Because I have greater knowledge of the Majorcan olives, I am going to focus on Majorca.

The American president, Thomas Jefferson, once said, the olive tree is surely the greatest gift from the heavens. With more than 750,000 olive trees, 90% of them more than 500 years old, Mallorca is truly blessed. These ancient gnarled and twisted trees are an intrinsic part of Mallorca’s landscape.

Have you ever tried a Majorcan olive? Not the round ones, the Spanish table olive or the Manzanilla, but the one which is matt green with an elongated shape and slightly bitter taste. Just like the island where it is grown, the Majorcan olive is bursting with a character and distinct taste of its own! It wasn’t until 2002, that the Denomination of Origin ‘Oli de Mallorca’ was created. This hallmark is applied to some of Majorca’s best extra virgin olive oils, which are produced specifically from the mallorquina, arbequina, and picual varieties.

 Much of the farming is still done by the traditional methods, in October the trees are bashed with sticks, called gaules, and the olives fall onto the nets that are placed on the ground below. One tree will yield about 40 kgs of olives. In some villages the oil produced is for personal use rather than for sale, and the villagers held each other to pick the crop in return for some finished oil. As soon as the olives are picked, they have to be taken to the olive press or tafona, as too much contact with oxygen in the air can turn the olives bitter and compromise the flavour of the oil.

 The actress, Carol Drinkwater, has written a series of books on her own experiences of owing and running an olive farm in the south of France. I enjoyed reading about the trials and tribulations of both renovating a property and growing olives.

It is possible to experience the flavours and aromas of authentic, rural Majorca as many of the renowned estates hold gastronomic tours and events. The website below gives details.

Iwww.abc-mallorca.com 

Some of the most popular oils are listed below;

Treurer

The Miralles family’s make first-class oil is made only from arbequina olives grown at their Finca near Algaida. Fruity and spicy, with delicate bitter notes, their oil is well balanced with aromatic hints of almonds, walnuts, and fennel. The name Treuer comes from the word tresorer, which means keeper of the treasure.

Son Catiu

Three oils; picual, arbequina, and a coupage, are produced at their Son Catiu centre situated between Inca and Llubi. They have a shop, tasting area and the islands largest and most modern olive press.

Biniagual

The Moors planted the first olive trees on the Biniagual estate in the 13th century and, today, the Finca has around 1,000 olive trees. This high-quality extra virgin olive oil is made from hand-harvested arbequina olives.

Son Moragues

Son Moragues, is an estate between Valldemossa and Deià. The 700-year-old Finca, dates back to the 14th century when the Moragues family first started cultivating the olive groves. The estate became famous due to Archduke Ludwig Salvador of Austria who acquired numerous plots of land around Valldemossa. Son Moragues was at the centre of his agricultural work and his olive oil won its first international award in 1888 at the world fair in Barcelona. He was a progressive man: a non-conformist, keen traveller, passionate scientist and visionary who was a keen advocate for preserving the environment and its local agriculture and culture. The olives are still harvested by hand and processed in the oil mill using the cold extraction method. Each individual, wild-growing olive tree (Ollastre) has been enriched with the “Majorcan variety” so that the oil from Son Moragues still originates from the same trees that the Archduke used without any use of pesticides or chemicals.

In 2006 the change to ecological farming began. Ancient knowledge is now being used to bring ancient traditions into the 21^st century. The nature conservation and sale of the products supports the preservation of the Serra de Tramuntana which has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site. Agriculture is viewed from a holistic viewpoint and they strive for trees, animals, plants and insects to be seen as one all-encompassing ecosystem.

 We cultivate and preserve the trees of our predecessors and use similar techniques.

 Ecological farming makes an important contribution to the protection of the environment and the regeneration of rural regions as projects such as these catch the interest of young people

Uta Werner- Son Moragues

Special events are hosted, offering an outdoor tasting of the critically acclaimed olive oil, a visit to the estate’s olive press ending with a three-course Majorcan lunch from a two-Michelin-star local chef. See their website for more details. www.sonmoragues.com

So next time you are visiting Majorca and you want to try a different experience what about going to an olive farm?

Olive Trees and Oil and The Mediterranean Diet

I spent time on Majorca, working at a Finca which grew olives. Ancient olive trees were dotted alongside the mountains, which reminded me of a magical forest like living tree-men, the branches looked like limbs with their strange gnarled shapes. Olive tree were considered to be a symbol of peace and immortality and were known as the Tree of Eternity, in part because the trees can live for up to 1500 years. The first olive plant was cultivated some 7,000 years ago in Mediterranean regions. Like many things they were introduced to Spain by the Romans. The first recorded evidence was during Julius Caesar's campaigns. In the book De Bello Hispanico, it relates an anecdote about Caesar's cavalry planting an olive tree plantation close to Sevilla, in Andalucía, in the 1st century BC. Olive oil production continued to grow during the Moorish occupation, the trees surviving the ravages and devastation of many wars. Historians claim that the olive is synonymous of civilization. During the 16th and 17th centuries, olives were later taken to the New World by Spanish settlers, and are now established in many former colonial areas, including California and South America.

Spain has a surprising variety of climates and microclimates. With thousands of years of evolution, the olive tree has adapted to cope with extreme conditions. These include drought, fire, poor soils and even very low temperatures for short periods. There are 260 olive varieties used to produce Spanish olive oils meaning that there is a far wider range of aromas and tastes amongst Spanish oils than amongst those of any other oil producing nation. Some Spanish oils taste sweet and smooth, whereas others have great body and character with a varying intensity of a pleasant bitterness or pungency. Spanish olive oils usually have an intense fruity aroma reminiscent of green or ripe olives.

Since ancient times it has been deeply rooted into all the areas of human experience from the material aspects of life to the spiritual and was considered a sacred food. Its many uses have converted olive oil in a highly valued and greatly appreciated commodity. In addition to its culinary uses for dressings, or as an excellent method of food preservation, oil has been used for medicinal, cosmetic, and religious purposes. Spanish olive oil has many ambassadors. Award-winning chefs create 9-course menus from this ‘liquid gold’ to demonstrate how to incorporate the traditional flavour of Mediterranean food into modern gourmet cuisine. Food tourism is becoming popular holding tastings, similar to wine tastings, to introduce customers to trying and selecting the right oil.

Nowadays nutrition studies have confirmed its incredible health benefits. The antioxidants in olive oil help protect the body from cellular damage caused by molecules called free radicals that can lead to a range of health conditions and disease. In the Mediterranean, people preserve olives in olive oil or salted water eating them whole or chopped adding them to many traditional dishes. Olive oil is used as a dip for bread, for drizzling on pasta, in cooking, or as a salad dressing. Some people consume it by the spoonful for medicinal purposes.

Extra virgin olive oil, which is the best quality oil available, contains a large amount of monounsaturated fats and some polyunsaturated fatty acids. Apart from its beneficial fatty acids, it contains modest amounts of vitamins E and K. biologically active and may reduce your risk of chronic disease. The diets of adults from several Mediterranean islands were analysed to see how olive oil related to aging. The researchers found that those who used olive oil exclusively as their dietary fat had significant improvements in the successful aging index, which is a measure of age-related lifestyle, social and clinical factors. These findings were especially strong for people over 70 years old.

The cultivation of olives and production of oil, has given wealth to Spain not just its economic but gastronomically. The Romans, may have been the first to cultivate olives but the Spanish have turned them into an artform!

Barres de Mercado- Market Bars

Despite the many gourmet bars and bistros in Spain, the long-standing market bars continue to stay busy still having a loyal clientele. Many of these bars have been going for decades. Opening from 7am until lunchtime, from Monday to Saturday. Serving drinks, including coffees, and tapas. Tourists have become braver over the years and do join the tussle for service in these busy bars, queuing is only in England! In the week, there are fewer younger people, although they make up for it over the weekend. Locals, come for a chat as much as to eat and drink. To catch up with friends and the latest gossip. Many traditional customs have been lost over the years but this does seem to be one that carries on. You tend to see more men than women sitting or standing having a pre- lunch Variado- which is a small dish of different tapas. With a lunchtime beer in hand, locals often stand up at the market bar to chat and watch the world go by.

The market is typically Spanish in atmosphere, where fishermen shout over crates of fish, business-men rub shoulders with butchers and in general, everyone talks with everyone. This relaxed level of socialising is what attracts the locals here every week, contributes to the buzz, and above all, makes the food fun. What would a slice of jamón be without a friendly Cómo va? This friendly, familiar approach found in the market halls brings the food sold to life, making the experience all the more enjoyable. Once, you have returned a few times, you will be included in the banter, but be warned you will be given a nickname of some kind, and teased a bit, which means you have been accepted. It helps to speak some Spanish even to just order a drink and its very much appreciated that you have had a go, even if you will most likely be given pointers on your Linguistic skills and made to repeat yourself until you get it correct. I personally love the colour and chaos of the markets, its not a quiet way to have a drink or a bite to eat, but certainly a great way to observe the culture of Spain. The standard of the food served is high and worth sampling.

In Majorca, I enjoy Buades, a family business in the S’Oliver Mercat which has been running for 40 years, they serve full platters of Ibérico ham and bread drizzled in olive oil, for which they are famous.

The San Juan mercado in the S’Escorxador is dedicated to serving-up international cuisine and is more of a gastronomic experience but is based on the market bars. Segmented into different stalls, you will enjoy perusing the variety of food on offer: from oysters to pintxos, to noodles and sushi, all tastes and appetites are catered to. Long tables with stools line the centre which allows for a sociable atmosphere where tourists and locals alike sit side by side. This is a good market to visit particularly in the evening as well as in the day time. As the hours are longer and full meals are served.

These markets bars are in many of the large covered food-halls and markets in Spain, some like the San Juan Mercado, in Majorca, are a mix of old and new cuisine and are of course are higher priced but still good value.

I hope these bars endure are not replaced by chains and fast food companies, as it would be a great lose indeed. 

Celebrating Foods from the Land

As I have mentioned in my previous blog posts, farming and the crops produced play a large part of the economy of Spain. Much of the produce for Europe is grown. Traditions are often passed on from generation to generation. Now some of the festas associated with food today do attract visitors and tourists are important financially but these festivals celebrating food and the land mean far more to the locals than just money.

The Mantaca- is a family affair, once a year, on this day the famous Black Majorcan pig – Porcella Negra is slaughtered, the butcher is the matador, every section of the pig is used and preparation tasks are allocated to all the family and guests, after the work is done, food and drink is offered to all those  taking part on the day and the evening is a festa of music and dancing after the hard work is done. In some ways this seems a bit gruesome to us, but in a farming community these customs were about the survival for the villages in the winter months and everyone helped. Rural traditions have gone into decline, but in 2019, in Campos, in Majorca, a day dedicated to the Balearic sausage- from the Majorcan black pig was started this is called the Feria de la Sobrasada. Many similar days take place and now these show the gastromery of the  local cuisine to tourists.

 In Extremadura in central Spain, El Festival Trasfornterizo del Gurumelo, is a festival for a rare mushroom local to the area. Gurumelo mushrooms are difficult to find so hundreds of people turn out to look for them and enjoy the food stalls, tasters and workshops.

Sa Festa d’s Melo in Villafranca De Bonnay in September, has taken place since 1994, the climax of the day been the Concurs d’Es Melo, the biggest melon competition, a highlight in the local farmers (Meloners) calendar, there’s also a melon eating competition as well as a melon lantern festival in the evening.

Many of the festas celebrating foods from the lands are linked to harvesting, a way of having some enjoyment after the hard work is done.

LLubi, also in the centre of the island (the Pla) there are bee-keeping traditions that have gone on for centuries. Honey was once only for the upper classes. Now in June, everyone can try foods, drink even soap made from honey.

In Colonia De Sant Jordi in April there is a festival to celebrate Ses Santines, giving tours of the saltworks and giving tasters of salt-cured foods and the many varieties of salt, which is a natural resource from the island.

Later on, in the year in October is the Feria Del Pimento in Felanitix, in honour or Red peppers a key ingredient in many of the local dishes.

Sa Pobla, in the centre of Majorca is famous for growing potatoes, many end up been sold in the UK.  in June there is an evening called Fra Nocturina de La Patatas. The main square, is filled with food stalls selling typical Majorcan dishes featuring Potato as a key ingredient like: Tumblet, Coca da Patatas and Bunyols but also more creative dishes like: Ice Cream, Potato and apple strudel and Potato Brownie. The prices are very affordable and are tapas sized so you can try lots of different dishes, it does get very busy.  I really enjoyed this night and tasted some very unusual food and was surprised at how much potatoes can be used in cooking.

During the year, you will be able to find a local festa for all sorts of different foods, herbs and drinks as well as local artisan markets with a range of local foods and delicacies. It is well worth going to these to sample a real taste of the local culture.