Park Life in Paris- Le Jardin du Luxembourg and Parc Monceau

 I guess there are generally two groups of holidays- makers: those that rush around making sure they see everything or those that prefer to totally relax, venturing only to the nearest bar or restaurant. However, you choose to spend your trip or holiday, is very personal. I do like to see something of the area around me but I also like to take some quieter moments for myself.

Oddly enough the times I appreciated the most, whist on holiday, were quite mundane, sitting in a local park, large o small and reading a book, just watching the world around me or listening to some music.  (Through my headphones of course) These were often, peaceful, contemplative moments, when the sun shone, the sky was blue and surrounded by plants, flowers and trees what could be more perfect.

Even on city breaks, I often find my way to a local park. Everyone’s favourite, mine included is the iconic, Le Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris known locally as the Luco. This is one of the most featured travel spots on Pinterest. Situated on the border between Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Latin Quarter, the Luxembourg Gardens, were inspired by the Boboli Gardens in Florence and were created by Queen Marie de Medici in 1612, who was homesick for her native Italy. The gardens, which cover 25 hectares of land, are split into French gardens and English gardens. There are several listed buildings within the gardens: the Palais de Luxembourg, the Musee de Luxembourg and the Orangerie which houses plants from the Mediterranean. Also, there are 106 statues spread throughout the park including the monumental Medici fountain. At the southern part of the garden there is an English style orchard containing ancient and forgotten varieties of apples. 

These beautiful gardens have appeared regularly in French literature, perhaps most famously in Victor Hugo's Les Misérables where Marius and Cosette first meet. This is my favourite book and when I sit in the gardens, I can imagine these partisan young lovers, sitting by my side. Today, it is still a great place to relax, reflect and enjoy some lovely greenery in the heart of a city. Whilst visiting Paris, it’s always one of my must-dos.

One of the first landscape parks to be made in Paris, is the Parc Monceau, which can be found in the 8th arrondissement of Paris. The park was created in the 17th century upon the orders of Phillippe of Orleans and designed by Louis Carrogis Carmontelle. The designer used Rousseau's words to explain his aim, to bring together all ages and all parts of the world in a single garden'. Today it is one of the most elegant parks in Paris and surrounded by impressive mansions, in one of Paris's most upmarket neighborhoods.Visitors can enter through the great wrought iron gates embellished with gold.

The park covers eight hectares and has an English style, informal layout. Many ages and parts of the world are represented by follies. Such as: A Renaissance archway belonging to the former Paris City Hall, an 'Egyptian pyramid', Corinthian pillars and even a Dutch windmill. There are also many statues featuring some of France's leading figures including Guy de Maupassant, Alfred de Musset and Frederic Chopin. The artist, Claude Monet painted five paintings in the Parc Monceau.

This park is one of the prettiest in Paris, with lots of paths, ponds and stream. It is close to Champs-Elysees and other strategic touristic places, and offers some quiet places in the city for both Parisians and tourists to spend peaceful and pleasant moments.

Parks, are one of my pleasures, I hope they become yours too. 

Paris Flea-Markets- Marché aux Puces

I love the Paris flea- markets, and always plan a trip to Paris on the days the market takes place, as a trip to Paris would be incomplete without a day spent visiting the market. The diversity of personalities, stall keepers and products for sale, some more antique than others, makes it unmissable. The term flea market originated with the French marché aux puces. It translates as market of the fleas and refers to the flea-infested used clothing that was sold. Well, hopefully the fleas are a thing of the past but the markets still continue and are gaining in popularity as second-hand, vintage or pre-loved are totally on-trend. The weekend flea market Paris is one of the very best in France, in terms of the size and the eclectic nature of its wares. Its a little off the beaten track, which makes it even more worthwhile visiting. In my opinion, off- the beaten track is always the best way to see a city! 

The history of the flea market dates back over two centuries, when rag and bone men scoured through the garbage of Paris at night to find valuable junk to sell on. They were called crocheteurs or pickers. The romantic term was pêcheurs de lune'or fishermen for the moon. Many tried setting up temporary stalls within the Paris walls in sleazy neighbourhoods, but because these districts were full of pickpockets and thieves, they were chased out of the city walls to Clignancourt, Montreuil and Vanves. All of which continue to trade today.

The rag and bone men gathered outside the walls of Paris at the Porte de Clignancourt and set up temporary stalls. Eventually, they formed groups of stalls to attract more customers. The more enterprising traders began to trade up in terms of goods and eventually it became popular for Parisian collectors and antique dealers to shop there for bargains. 

In 1885, authorities in the town of Saint Ouen made a significant move to pave the streets and clean up the area, marking the official starting year of Les Puces. Several areas were designated as official market areas and a fee had to be paid to set up a stall there. The markets grew until Monsieur Romain Vernaison transformed the land, he owned into a series of covered huts which was to be called Marché Vernaison. This was followed by an Albanian named Malik who bought a restaurant on Rue Jules Vallès and transformed the building into 100 stalls which formed the Malik market. The Marché du Biron was formed in 1925, with two long rows of stalls and is known as one of the more expensive markets. Marché Jules Vallès was created in 1938 which is a smaller covered flea square market. Over time additional markets have been added including the Marché Dauphine, which is the largest covered market of the Saint-Ouen flea market. Now the market spans for miles and consists of 14 different markets.

On Saturday’s, Sunday’s and Monday mornings, Marché aux Puces de Clignancourt or Paris St-Ouen flea market is one of the most popular flea markets in the country with nearly a quarter of a million visitors annually. This market is well known for vendors that sell just about anything. The best way to get to the market is by metro on Line 4 the stop is the Porte de Clignancourt. The market and the neighbourhood are very colourful, don’t wear your best clothes, always wear comfortable shoes as you walk a lot and don't take valuables with you. The 18th arrondissement, where the market is located is in a less affluent part of Paris and the market gets very crowded. You can safely stroll around here during the day but you do need to watch your wallet and handbag. I prefer to go quite early in the morning. 

The Rue des Rosiers is the main street which you walk down in order to go into the separate markets. The individual markets tend to run into each other and there are also some Art Deco and antique shops, along the way. The various markets specialize in different items and I have listed these for you below. I enjoy browsing the markets which are more Bric-à-Brac and Marché Vernaison for textiles, paintings and furniture. You can get lost wandering down the alleyways so do try to remember landmarks. Marché Jules Vallès has the reputation of being the cheapest and the most picturesque market sells antiques postcards, posters and smaller items. Antique enthusiasts can rejoice in bargain-hunting without fuss in these iconic old- fashioned stalls and antiques shops. It promises countless surprises and unusual finds. The Paris market is more expensive than the other markets in France.

The different markets are below:

The Antica Market-Located in a stylish and elegant gallery, this market has a dozen stands and offers paintings, bronze, porcelain and Art Deco style goods.

The Biron Market-220 Antiques and Art dealers offer luxury goods, jewellery, furniture, paintings, mirrors, light fixtures.

The Cambo Market-A small market consisting of 20 different stands across two floors, where you’ll find high-quality restored furniture and works of art

The Dauphine Market-Inaugurated in 1991, this is the newest but also the largest market, with 180 merchants spread across two floors. You can find classic antiques dating back to the 18th and the 19th century as well as items from the 20th century. Its most eclectic market of the Flea market.

The Le Passage Market-Linking the Rue Lécuyer to Rue Jules Vallès. There are a variety of items available for sale antique, but this market is mainly geared towards vintage clothes.

The Malassis Market-This covered market will send you back in time with its original, innovative architecture. You can find antiques dealers, decorators, themed shops, collectors and jewellery.

The Malik Market-This market has sportswear and trendy clothing. Hipsters find trendy Parisian fashion, vintage and old uniforms, think Camden Market.

The Vernaison Market-It offers the largest number of stands: furniture, ancient toys, glassware and vintage clothing.

The Paul Bert Market-This market is popular with interior decorators across the world offering industrial and antique furniture.

The Serpette Market-This market has an upper-class clientele and offers high-end antiques like silverware and table decorations.

The Entrepôt Market-The market offers unique items such as staircases, bookcases, woodwork, castle gates.

The Rues Market-This is like a jumble sale, where people lay their goods out on the ground. You’ll also find some unusual items throughout these stands and boutiques with vintage clothes and furniture. It’s great for rummaging.

Maps are available and it is possible to take a tour of the markets with an experienced antique buyer if you are worried about exploring on your own. Various companies offer this service. Check out the website below, they also have some great advice about the market.

www.parisperfect.com/tour/paris-flea-market-tour

The markets have been closed but are due to re-open this weekend, if you need more details see the link below.

https://uk.tourisme93.com/saint-ouen-clignancourt-flea-market-access-and-opening-times.html

Paris- A City for Lovers

I thought of this blog post a short while ago, and since then, like most people I have binge-watched Emily in Paris. Known as the City for Lovers, for me, it’s a city for; fashion lovers, food lovers, art lovers, architecture lovers, history lovers and simply lovers of life….

The Netflix series has come in for some criticism for using cliques of Parisians and their life’s, whilst I see this a little, it also does portray the Paris that I have seen with my own eyes. And after all it’s a light- hearted, series which offers escapism, (which we all need right now) not a gritty, realistic drama. I am sure when we can travel for freely, myself included, we will all be flocking to spent time in the beautiful city of Paris.

I have been to Paris, many times but not for several years, and I know that it has undergone some upheavals and changes, but like a fading beauty queen, she will never totally lose her true glamour. There is an under-side, as in all major cities and caution is required, particularly where muggings and pickpockets are concerned. But by using some common-sense, essential for all travellers it is still relatively safe. Leave your valuables in a safe place and pay attention when you are out and about if you a female solo traveller.

Parisians, it has to be said are a law to themselves, a bit like native New Yorkers, however their attitude is to envy, confident, arrogant and so very French, as a self-enfacing, English person it’s quite refreshing to see, well in small amounts.

Anyway, less of the people and more of the city, I love walking around Paris, as a poor student, I didn’t have any choice, but by exploring this way, you always find a wonderful little street or bistro and I discover something new, every time I visit. Walking is a very Parisian thing to do to. People- watching is one of by favourite things to do, and siting with un café et une croissant and watching the world go by is a Parisian tradition, I find, I can easily adopt.

A break in Paris, offers something for everyone, from wonderful shops, restaurants, galleries and museums, there is so much to see and do. I always think its best to see less and savour the experience, rather than trying to fit everything into a few days, as you totally lose the vibe of the city by doing this and its great to have a good excuse to return.

Guide books and maps are helpful particularly if it’s your first visit but by going off the beaten track you discover things yourself, so I make loose plans which I can then change easily. I prefer to eat in smaller local places, as sometimes the well-know destinations can be full of tourists and a bit disappointing. An open mind when traveling can give you a better experience. I learnt French at school and have been re-learning French in the lockdown, I always aim to speak French in Paris, sometimes you will not be understood (often on purpose), you may even be corrected but it’s just the Parisian way.

The blog the Every Day Parisian is very interesting with some great tips, as an American writes about her time living in Paris, the photos are lovely too. Paris is perfect for any time of year, as the seasons are quite different, just dress correctly. It can be cold and wet in Winter and very hot in Summer, pretty sun- dresses are great, in Paris, summer fashion is not too revealing and don’t forgot comfortable shoes for all the walking, the cobbled streets are not great for heels. An umbrella is often needed as it does rain quite a bit.

I can't wait to return, but in the meantime, I might just watch Emily in Paris again!