Cellers- Traditional Mallorcan Taverns

As mentioned previously the production of wine in Mallorca was affected more greatly than mainline Spain by the vine pest. Which led to other crops been grown on the vines. The wine cellars were left standing unused, now as resourceful as ever the Mallorca’s came up with an alternative use. The wine cellars were converted into semi-underground restaurants. These are very distinctive of Mallorca, I’m not sure if anyone else has these? The food served is traditional and you should not expect fine dining as its good rustic fare. Real basement cellers have wine vats to prove it even if nowadays the term is used for any old-style restaurant. The best cellers are usually found in rural market towns like Inca and Sineu. These are great places to try Mallorcan classics like llom amb col (pork wrapped in cabbage) or frit mallorqui (fried offal). You can combine a trip to the weekly market with a visit to a cellar for an authentic day out.

Traditionally a celler had been a place where the wine was made and aged. These places were later transformed into restaurants specialising in Majorcan dishes, first aimed at the local residents, and later to tourists. I will give you a brief history of how cellers came about in Mallorca.

Before cars and vans became the norm, goods were transported around the island by mule-drawn carriages. This made a cross-island journey a slow affair. Its also fair to say that the men who were transporting goods were never in a hurry to get from A to B. So, a journey from one side of the island to the other could easily take a couple of days, meaning many people wanted to sleep overnight.

Along the old main road from Puerto Andratx to Puerto Alcudia there were roadside taverns called hostals that put up people and mules for the night. Now although these were at strategic points on the route, the main stop-off point and the favourite resting place for most people was Inca. As the geographical centre of the island it was the ideal stop on such a long journey. And Inca was well prepared to handle travellers. As it is also in the heart of one of the island’s main wine-producing areas, Inca was a major supplier of wines from the barrel.

The authentic cellars were below ground level so were cooler than premises at ground level. The better ones had several wines in barrels and people who lived nearby, as well as those who came from far away, took along wicker-covered flagons that were filled direct from the barrels. However, travellers going either east or west across the island, often wanted something to eat. That was easy enough because the celler owner’s wife always had country bread at hand and it was easy to serve a few slices with sobrasada or other kinds of local charcuterie. Travellers were soon interested in eating something more substantial. So, she began to make larger amounts of what the family were eating for lunch or dinner and she served that as the dish of the day. All housewives were good cooks in those days, some were better than others and many of the cellers started to serve two dishes instead of just one and even offer desserts.

Long before visitors from every corner of the island were pulled towards Inca, Sineu, Petra, Palma or Algaida. Inca was already famous with the locals as a haven for good Majorcan cooking. I can testify to this myself as this town has a large range of very good, affordable eating places.

Cellers were started as large and convenient places where people bought and drank wine. But, soon the wine-dispensing cellers became the restaurants they are today. The food served was only Majorcan cooking. Usually from a family- recipes and although the dishes were the familiar local kind, each family had variations that made their versions different. Some of the cellers have been in the hands of the same family group for decades producing a strong connection with the past. That’s why you will find an unbroken line of tradition in the cellers and other village restaurants that have been in the same family for generations. And it is this dedication to cooking as it was done more than 100 years ago that keeps people going back to them.

The most famous is the Celler Sa Premsa Restaurant, a true Mallorcan treasure located within the island’s capital city of Palma. You dine in a rustic restaurant surrounded by wooden barrels and local flair. The menu comprises of genuine traditional local cuisine, giving its visitors a little snippet of the island's culinary secrets. It has been famous since the 1960s.

Celler Can Amer in Inca, is located in a building which is classed as historic heritage. The food is delicious including roast sucking pig. Also, in Inca, is the Celler can Ripoll, famous for its cuisine since the 1940s, which has a pretty garden terrace. The building dates back to 1768, so ideal for history lovers as well as foodies.

When in Mallorca, you should definitely try some typical local food. There are various restaurants to be explored around the island and they will be full of Mallorcan patrons as well as been popular with tourists. These, are such a different experience and the cooler temperature is idea for eating on very hot days. I’m sure you will enjoy it very much!

Con Pescado- With Fish

I have talked about the importance of fish in the Mediterranean diet before. In the UK, Fish and Chips is one of the most popular dishes, now whilst I am a big fan too, battered and fried fish with fried potatoes is not a healthy meal even with all the benefits of fish. When I googled fish, it brought up nearby Fish and Chip shops which says a lot.

A Mediterranean diet incorporates the traditional healthy living habits of people from countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea, including: Greece, Italy and Spain. The Mediterranean diet varies by country and region. But generally, it's high in vegetables, fruits, legumes, nuts, beans, cereals, grains, fish and unsaturated fats such as olive oil. It usually includes a low intake of meat and dairy foods. Fish are important in the Mediterranean diet, which recommends consuming more fish (at least twice a week) than meat. Fatty fish; mackerel, herring, sardines, albacore tuna, salmon and lake trout are all rich in omega-3 fatty acids. (A type of polyunsaturated fat that may reduce inflammation in the body)

Conveniently close to the Mediterranean Sea, it’s no surprise that people in the Mediterranean eat mostly locally sourced seafood. Seafood, both fish and shellfish, are consumed several times per week. Naturally, the fresher, the better when it comes to the quality and taste of seafood.

I added more fish to my diet, whilst staying in Spain. However, Spanish Pescaderías or fish markets can be very intimidating and very different to the fish counters in the UK. Whole fish are displayed on ice, with large shiny eyes staring up at you and gaping mouths revealing rows of razor-sharp teeth. So many varieties are displayed it’s difficult to choose and certainly a linguistic challenge to explain what you want to buy.

In Mallorca, most of the fish on sale, is imported from mainland Spain due to the local decline. However, there are still some local varieties especially appreciated by the Mallorcans. Perhaps the most famous is the Gamba Roja de Sóller or Sóller Red Prawn which is fished daily and brought to Port de Sóller, where they are sold at the local fish market. These prawns can be eaten raw in carpaccio or tartare, baked in salt, fried or grilled. The most sought-after variety of fish is the raor or razorfish, which is considered the most coveted and expensive fish in the Balearic Islands. There are also plenty of Mediterranean rockfish species such as the caproig or the anfòs which are commonly used in stews. Popular local recipes include lobster casserole, sea bass in rock salt, seafood rice and greixonera de peix, a hearty fish stew cooked in an earthenware bowl. Which is my favourite way of eating fish in Mallorca. Native Mallorcans prefer their fresh seafood grilled with just a bit of salt and lemon and if you are sitting close to the sea this is just perfect. My local friends took me to a seafood restaurant and the meal its self was very simple, grilled fish and local vegetables without any sauce, but the freshness of both made it one of the best meals I have every had. The Balearic Islands have a lot of wonderful fish restaurants for ever budget, many with lovely views.

In Malaga, fried fish called pescaíto is the backbone of typical Malaga cuisine. Served at restaurants and beach bars throughout the city, plates of pescaíto are part and parcel of any Malagueños lunch or supper. Given its perfect seaside location, it probably comes as no surprise that one of the most popular tapas in Malaga is a form of seafood. The beachfront bars known as Chiringuitos, grill sewers of seafood known as espetos, sardines being the most popular, directly over an open flame on a grill made of an old fishing boat. Freshly fished from Malaga bay and grilled to perfection. If you only eat one thing while you’re here, make it these. I love to go for a long walk by the seafront and the sight and wonderful aromas of the Chiringuitos make it an unforgettable experience. There was talk about these been banned, to public outcry as these are so much part of the coastline.

Its impossible to visit Spain without having Tapas, and Malaga’s boquerones fritos, which are crispy fried anchovies are delicious and I don’t like the salty little fish usually. Octopus is also popular in Tapas, I can't say that I like it all that much, but I think its important to at least try local dishes.

If you are in Spain do remember that not only is fish good for health but it will be totally delicious too particularly with a chilled glass of wine and a sea front view.

Sea-Salt- Ses Saline’s d’Es Trenc

Now, I rarely use salt.I think processed table salt is just awful and I have found out recently just had bad it is for your health. Now despite the fact we’re constantly being advised to reduce our daily salt intake, this is the oldest and most used seasoning. Chefs and cooks can’t do without it!

Sea- salt does have greater health benefits, it has higher concentrations of magnesium, potassium, calcium and micro nutrients than table salt which makes it much better for us. In a warmer climate a degree of salt is required.

Mallorca combines the three factors needed for the production of pure and high-quality sea salt: crystal-clear sea water, high temperatures and sea breezes. Therefore, it’s no surprise that the extraction of this precious mineral started centuries ago. In fact, the first salt exploitation's in Mallorca date back to over 2,000 years ago. In recent times, this industry has grown significantly. The most important salt mines are located in Ses Salines d’Es Trenc. They produce an astounding amount of 15,000 tons of sea salt per year and cover an area of 172 hectares.

The Las Salinas factory produces salt in the method first used by the Phoenicians thousand's of years ago. The process of evaporation of the water in immense 'pans' produces pure, high quality salt. Las Salinas covers a vast area, as large man-made salt lakes on slightly different levels are required to process the gradually evaporating sea water as the salt crystals slowly form and are stored in great heaps. The salt is used for varying purposes; in industry, in the home, for chemical processes, water purification and in swimming pools. In cooking the salt can be used for everyday purposes both in fine and rough grains. The Flor de Sal (which translates as sea blossom salt) is a gourmet salt, which is a growing business as the demand increases for high quality, natural ingredients with home cooks and chefs alike.

Flor de Sal d’Es Trenc is harvested by hand. The salt workers still use traditional rakes to extract the salt flower from the surface of the water and then dry it under the sun. The production and packaging are also done by hand, a total of 15 people are involved in the process. The Flor de Sal is stored in natural baskets and then sun-dried the next day. Finally, it is flavoured with Mediterranean herbs and spices such as: orange, lemon, hibiscus, black olive, lavender and rosemary. Today’s ranges include limited editions, like curry and one with beetroot. All the additives, are fresh, natural, local and often organic. There is a plain variety which has nothing added or removed, making it a 100% natural. You only need to use a very small amount so it lasts for ages. My personal favourite is the lemon.

In fact, Flor de Sal d´es Trenc is the most precious salt in the Mediterranean and without a doubt one of the island’s most important products. Mallorca’s gastronomic reputation owes something to an enterprising Swiss-German woman, Katja Wöhr, who moved to the island in 2002. The previous year, she had been fascinated by the harvesting of Fleur de Sel during a visit to France. She came to Mallorca and was the first person to harvest and commercialise Flor de Sal from the salt marshes behind Es Trenc. Which is a white sandy beach within an officially protected area that’s home to 180 species of birds. In 2003, after obtaining the necessary licence, Katja and a friend began to harvest Flor de Sal manually, using the traditional French rake known as a lousse. Initially, they bagged the crystals and sold them, alongside an honesty box, at the entrance to the salt marshes. Visitors to the Es Trenc beach would buy the salt as a souvenir. Its still a great reminder of your holiday in Mallorca.

It was the involvement of Marc Fosh, the British chef and owner of the Michelin-starred restaurant Marc Fosh in Palma who aided the product’s early success. 

Marc explains, I’d already been using my own home-made flavoured salts in my kitchen and suggested producing flavoured flor de sal to. We had several different tastings over the following weeks and finally decided on black olive, Mediterranean herbs, and hibiscus, as the first, flavours.

 He attributes the real success to Katja who was a real trailblazer and he was extremely happy to play a small part in the success of Flor de Sal d’es Trenc.

You can buy online on the Flor de Sal d’Es Trenc website and at the company’s four shops on the island of Mallorca. Specialist food stores around the world do stock the range too. There are lots of flavoured salts on the market these days, but as a non-salt lover these have really converted me to using and enjoying a little more salt.

Carob Beans-Past and Future

Many of us haven’t ever heard or thought about carob bean since sometime in the 1990’s when it was  marketed as a healthy substitute for chocolate in our diets. It just didn’t quite catch on except for a certain type of health enthusiast. But with an abundant supply on Mallorca and some pretty serious health benefits, it may be time to take a second look at these bizarre-looking little pods with a long and important history on Mallorca.

Carob beans are actually legumes. They grow from old stems on short flower stalks, are quite broad and leathery-looking and can be as long as 30 centimetres in length. The taste is less bitter than chocolate and the flavour nutty. It’s naturally sweet, so additional sugar is often not required when used in cooking. The carob bean has an exceptional nutritional content and, in some circles, has been elevated to a super food category. Carob contains vitamins A, B, B2, B3 and D and it contains three times more calcium than milk. Carob is an excellent alternative to cocoa, as it is free from caffeine and fat. A powerful mix of fibre and minerals, it has been said it can help to reduce cholesterol and may even reduce the risk of heart disease as its contains antioxidants that can reduce high cholesterol.

One of Mallorca’s traditionally most important crops, the algarroba fruit or carob fruit. They are endemic to the Mediterranean and the Middle East where they have been cultivated for more than four millennia. The Algarrobo tree (Ceratonia siliqua or carob tree) is very characteristic of the Mediterranean region,carob trees love dry climates, and grow on land that isn’t much good for anything else. In Spain, it's the shape of the fruit that gave them their name, as Algarroba is the Persian word for "donkey's jawbone. Also known as “St. John’s Tree”, carob is even referenced in the Bible because, it is said that John the Baptist fed himself on carob beans in his time in the wilderness, which is why they are often called locust beans. The Moors first started growing carob as a crop and when the Spanish took over, they brought the tree to Mexico and South America. 

Its wood has traditionally been used as firewood, and its fruit, the carob, was used as feed for draught animals. There was a significant increase in the consumption of carobs between the last third of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth, and this was linked to the consumption by animals. Large quantities of carobs were exported both abroad and to Spain, but the progressive decline in the use of draught animals reduced the demand in carob beans. However, other uses were found for the carob, such as in the industrial production of chocolate with carob substituting cocoa and in the extraction of sugars, alcohol and laxatives.

 During the period of the Spanish Civil War and the post-war years, in which much of Spain suffered famine. The pods were ground to make a flour which made a coarse peasant bread. The carob also took on a special significance in the production of foodstuffs that could not be easily imported, such as coffee. In rural Mallorca there was at least one tree, planted close to the houses for shade and for the simple fact that it supplied nourishing food in times of the greatest need. During the Spanish Civil War children chewed on algarrobas as their favourite sweets.

The annual algarroba harvest is during September and October. You will see Mallorcan farmers beating long dark carob beans off their trees with long sticks. Unfortunately, in Mallorca over the last few years Algarrobo trees are more and more neglected. The cost of manpower is too high nowadays to harvest the carob pods and the cost per kilo too low. So, as with the majority of traditional cultivations, the carob tree has been in recession.

But all is not lost. Carob is an organic product and completely vegan and a developing market does exist, companies are looking at new ways to use these abundant crops and there is also a recovery foundation to help save the trees. In collaboration with APAEMA  – Association for the Ecological Farming Production of Mallorca, the Mallorca Preservation Foundation is funding the regeneration of 2000 non-productive carob trees in Mallorca from 2020.

For three generations, the family business of Es Garrover de Mallorca has been dedicated to the production and transformation of carob beans for animal consumption. However, Juana Verger decided to grow, process and sell organic Mallorcan carob intended for human consumption too.

Under the brand Johannis, Es Garrover de Mallorca produces a wide range of wonderful carob products. The passion dedicated in returning that superb qualities of carob to human consumption is a wonderful example of how talent and determination can return to agriculture and return the lost treasures of our ecosystem back into our diets and support our good health.

 https://www.esgarroverdemallorca.com/

I hope if you able, you will try some of these products. The Carob tree is very much part of the landscape of Mallorca and it would a terrible lose if they disappeared.

 

 

 

 

  

An Evening of Art and Culture

 

When we go on our holidays it's all to easy to sit by the swimming pool or on the beach, never really venturing out very much beyond the nearest bar. Now whilst I fully understand that most of the time you want and need a relaxing break and to get a bit of sun, which doesn’t always happen in the UK. But you know many resorts have a huge selection of art galleries and museums to visit. At some parts of the day or on certain days of the week these can be free to visit or have a reduced entry cost.  Even if you had not planned on fitting some Art and Culture into your holiday, if you do make the effort to do this you will be in for a big reward. On Sunday afternoons and evening many of the leading galleries can be free. The most popular ones can have big queues, so see if you can pre-book or arrive early. One of my favourite art galleries also has a great bar with sea-views perfect for relaxing afterwards so you can have the best of both worlds.

If you do a bit of research before you go away, you will be surprised at how much there is to do and there really is something for every taste. One of my favourite events is the Nit de l'Art in Mallorca, hosted every year in the middle of September. This is Mallorca's Mediterranean version of the Nuit Blanche concept, which originated in Paris and many cities worldwide celebrate.

In Palma, for only one night a year, many of the art galleries and museums join together to celebrate the autumn arts and culture season and the inauguration of their exhibitions by transforming the city's historic old town into a treasure trove for art lovers on Saturday night. The event started in a small way in 1997 and has grown and grown ever since. Here's what they say about it;

La Nit de L'Art is a unique event which fuses the characteristic spirit of the traditional Spanish fiestas (where people of all ages get together in public squares and picturesque streets) to celebrate, the eclectic buzz of gallery openings and the excitement of a treasure hunt mapped out within the medieval walls of one of the most beautiful historic enclaves of the Mediterranean. Throughout a single evening, the historic quarter is taken over by the art world, with tens of thousands of visitors spilling out onto the pedestrian streets and alleyways to explore some of the most exciting exhibitions, performances and installations of the year.

If this is of interest to you can download a full programme with maps of all the galleries and museums taking part by clicking the link from the website. All the main museums and galleries take part; Solleric, Baluard, Miro, Misericordia, Sa Nostra and The Caixa forum. These are all open for free as well as performances and exhibitions in public spaces and squares like La Rambla, Plaza del Mercado, Plaza Mayor and Plaza de la Porta de Santa Catalina. The old town is transformed into an enormous open-air art exhibition. Bright young talents and seasoned professionals from the artistic community take advantage of every corner to show their work to the public. Bars, cafes, studios, rooftops, facades of historic buildings, shop windows and balconies. Many hotels get involved to and its great to have a wander through these too. it’s a wonderful opportunity to see inside buildings that are out of bounds like the City Hall. Some events take part on the same night in other parts of the island like in culture- loving Pollenca, so if you are not in Palma you still may be able to see events on a smaller scale

You can even enjoy a glass or two of Cava as you peruse the art. The event starts from 7:00 pm and the galleries will remain open until midnight. You can pick up a list and map of participating galleries throughout Palma in the tourist information or the galleries themselves. It’s a fun, busy night and very well-attended by the locals and visitors alike. You have to walk a bit, so not wearing heels is a good idea. But it’s a must for art-lovers and if you don’t know much about art it’s a great way to gain insight into the art world. And wonderful for people-watching, as there are some very interesting outfits and sights to see on the night.

Santa Semana- Easter

I mentioned in my last blog about Semana Santa, this is a religious festival and one of Spain’s most traditional festivals.In the UK, for most people, Easter is about giving and eating chocolate eggs. However, in Spain, religious traditions are still prominent. Especially in the case of Semana Santa, which means Holy Week.

The celebration is a week long and takes place all over Spain during Easter. Thousands of people take part in the processions and even more line the streets to watch. Huge floats carrying religious statures are brought to the churches. there are often marching bands following.  Although its a sombre occasion to pay homage to the last days of Jesus, its also colourful and captivating.

Each float depicts a scene from the Easter story and are carried by Costaleros. They are followed by Nazarenos who carry candles, torches or wooden crosses. They are dressed in full-length robes and conical hoods which cover their faces, some will be bare-footed. Its quite haunting and a bit sinister.This Spanish tradition originates from medieval times, when hoods and robes would be worn by people to show their repentance over past sins. At the back of the procession are women in mourning dressed in black lace veils called mantillas, often quite mature ladies.

All ages take part from young children to their grandparents, in villages everyone in the family takes part. I was amazed that even teenagers dress up! I have seen several processions both in small villages and Palma which is a major city. Both of these were wonderful an a sight to behold. The only word of warning is that the festivities continue for hours and its unbelievable busy, so dress comfortably and take something to eat and drink as the cafes are packed. But I would not have missed it for all the world. 

Fiesta- A Good Reason To Have A Party

The one thing that I remember most from my travels were the sheer amount of Fiesta’s everything from parties in a private house to street parties to fiestas or fetes involving the town or city. Although religious events are often celebrated the biggest been Semana Santa at Easter, overall, any excuse seems to be a good reason to hold a party for the fun-loving Spanish.

Fiesta or Fete translates to a party, holiday or feast and usually its a mix of all three. The verb is festejar which is to celebrate, and this certainly the case from what I has seen.

In Barcelona in August, the neighbourhood of Gràcia explodes into celebration. The Festa Major de Garcia lasts a week, in the day and evening. Taking part in over 20 streets in Gràcia. Although drinking, dancing and partying dominate the evening, the festival also features cultural activities and a fire run (correc) as well as activities for children during the day.

I feel that certainly the street events brought the communities together much more than in the UK. Both young and old taking part. Although the recent pandemic has affected this and people in Britain are now more community- spirited than previously. I spent several months working in a rural location in Andalusia and the nearest small village held fiestas regularly with everyone in the village attending. Every village, no matter how small, has its own, unique celebrations.

Whilst thousands of festivals are celebrated all over Spain throughout the year there are only a few that bring overseas visitors specifically for the event. In mid- March the Falles Festival takes place. It’s a traditional celebration held in commemoration of Saint Joseph in the city of Valencia, Spain. The term Falles refers to both the celebration and the monuments burnt during the celebration. It has been declared an event of Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. The whole of the city becomes an enormous street party, with parades, paella competitions and bullfights. Each night there is a firework display culminating in La Nit de Foc on the 18th March. The following night la Cremà takes place when all the ‘ninots’ which have been stuffed full with fireworks are burnt.

The official focus for the festival is San José, the patron saint of carpenters. Starting in the Middle Ages, carpenters hung planks of wood called ‘parots’ in the winter to support their candles whilst working. In spring these pieces of wood were burned as a way of celebrating the end of winter. After a while they began to put clothing on the ‘parot.’ These became the forerunners of the contemporary ‘ninots’ the enormous papier-mâché figures of today. It’s a loud, busy, colourful festival, not for the faint-hearted but a wonderful experience.

Medieval history is celebrated in many of the festivals in Spain. The annual Medieval fair in Capdepera, in Majorca, is set in the streets leading up to the Medieval castle that overlooks the town and is a popular event for adults and children alike. Blacksmiths, silversmiths, carpenters, shoemakers and ceramists are among the long list of artisans who offer Medieval inspired products to sell. Expect to see jousting, jugglers, falconry displays, stilt-walkers and fire-eaters. Traditional food and drink stalls are scattered throughout the event selling all kinds of Medieval fair. It wouldn’t be a Spanish fair without an excessive amount of food! The finale is a walk up to the castle by candlelight, which was atmospheric and an unforgettable memory.

 A similar festival takes place in Ibiza. To celebrate the declaration of Ibiza's Dalt Vila as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, every May the old- town hosts vibrant celebrations including three days of street parties, musical performances, artists and medieval re-enactments. As an added bonus, entry to all galleries and museums in Dalt Vila is free during the festival.

If you are planning a holiday do look in the local guides and see what is going on as not only is this great, often free entertainment it’s a wonderful way to see the culture and understand the history of the area.Many festivals have been cancelled for 2020 but I am sure they will be back with a great big bang in 2021.