Park Life in Paris- Le Jardin du Luxembourg and Parc Monceau

 I guess there are generally two groups of holidays- makers: those that rush around making sure they see everything or those that prefer to totally relax, venturing only to the nearest bar or restaurant. However, you choose to spend your trip or holiday, is very personal. I do like to see something of the area around me but I also like to take some quieter moments for myself.

Oddly enough the times I appreciated the most, whist on holiday, were quite mundane, sitting in a local park, large o small and reading a book, just watching the world around me or listening to some music.  (Through my headphones of course) These were often, peaceful, contemplative moments, when the sun shone, the sky was blue and surrounded by plants, flowers and trees what could be more perfect.

Even on city breaks, I often find my way to a local park. Everyone’s favourite, mine included is the iconic, Le Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris known locally as the Luco. This is one of the most featured travel spots on Pinterest. Situated on the border between Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Latin Quarter, the Luxembourg Gardens, were inspired by the Boboli Gardens in Florence and were created by Queen Marie de Medici in 1612, who was homesick for her native Italy. The gardens, which cover 25 hectares of land, are split into French gardens and English gardens. There are several listed buildings within the gardens: the Palais de Luxembourg, the Musee de Luxembourg and the Orangerie which houses plants from the Mediterranean. Also, there are 106 statues spread throughout the park including the monumental Medici fountain. At the southern part of the garden there is an English style orchard containing ancient and forgotten varieties of apples. 

These beautiful gardens have appeared regularly in French literature, perhaps most famously in Victor Hugo's Les Misérables where Marius and Cosette first meet. This is my favourite book and when I sit in the gardens, I can imagine these partisan young lovers, sitting by my side. Today, it is still a great place to relax, reflect and enjoy some lovely greenery in the heart of a city. Whilst visiting Paris, it’s always one of my must-dos.

One of the first landscape parks to be made in Paris, is the Parc Monceau, which can be found in the 8th arrondissement of Paris. The park was created in the 17th century upon the orders of Phillippe of Orleans and designed by Louis Carrogis Carmontelle. The designer used Rousseau's words to explain his aim, to bring together all ages and all parts of the world in a single garden'. Today it is one of the most elegant parks in Paris and surrounded by impressive mansions, in one of Paris's most upmarket neighborhoods.Visitors can enter through the great wrought iron gates embellished with gold.

The park covers eight hectares and has an English style, informal layout. Many ages and parts of the world are represented by follies. Such as: A Renaissance archway belonging to the former Paris City Hall, an 'Egyptian pyramid', Corinthian pillars and even a Dutch windmill. There are also many statues featuring some of France's leading figures including Guy de Maupassant, Alfred de Musset and Frederic Chopin. The artist, Claude Monet painted five paintings in the Parc Monceau.

This park is one of the prettiest in Paris, with lots of paths, ponds and stream. It is close to Champs-Elysees and other strategic touristic places, and offers some quiet places in the city for both Parisians and tourists to spend peaceful and pleasant moments.

Parks, are one of my pleasures, I hope they become yours too. 

Some of My Favourite Holiday Places- Capri

 Many of us have favourite holiday places, these are places that are memorable, sometimes we visit only once, others we return to again and again. I always think that there are too many wonderful places in the world to just keep doing the same thing each year. But its personal. As I haven’t travelled now since Autumn 2019, I have been thinking more aboutt past holidays destinations.

Italy is a beautiful country with lots on offer, I think my favourite place is the island of Capri. This small island is just off the coast of Naples on the Amalfi coast.  Some may feel that’s it's an expensive over-commercialised destination crammed with day-trippers. But no-one can deny that Capri has earned it's fame for many reasons. It’s natural beauty, delicious cuisine, world-class shopping, walking trails, historical buildings and stunning vistas.The combination of island simplicity, natural beauty yet with a busy, cosmopolitan lifestyle, offers something for everybody.

There are two separate towns on the island of Capri as well as the port. Capri town, with its well-known attractions and famous shopping streets has a tangible deluxe feel to it. Anacapri (Old town) is more residential with quiet lanes and a traditional feel. From here you can take the chair lift or funicular to the top of Monte Solaro.I am scared of heights but this was worth it. So take a few deep breaths.

This peaceful Mediterranean retreat yet fashionable meeting place has been popular since roman times. Despite its size it was a destination on the grand tour attracting everybody, from philosophers to princes, wanting to spend at least a week, if not months, experiencing the dramatic land and seascapes and the hospitality of the islanders. Many of these visitors decided to stay for the entire year. It was the place to see and definitely the place to be seen. You can fully understand why it has been a long preserve of celebrities and the super-rich needing a hideout to rest and let their hair down for a few weeks.

Steep cliffs rise majestically from an impossibly blue sea with elegant villas covered in wisteria and bougainvillea. If you take a stroll along via Tragara, this is the path that takes you past the once luxurious private villas that are now 5-star hotels. You will discover the Faraglioni rocks, the symbol of the Isle of Capri and be rewarded with spectacularly, wonderful views. Take a bench seat, they are s placed around the lookout area and marvel at the view of the glorious coastline and sheer drops.

In this unique and enchanting spot, Villa Lysis, was built in 1904 by Count Jacques d'Adelswärd Fersen. Villa Lysis is as eccentric as the nobleman himself, who withdrew to Capri in self-imposed exile to escape a series of scandals in his home country. Edouard Chimot, was commissioned to design a Neoclassical decadent refuge, which Architecturally was mainly  in a Art Nouveau style, his elegant, luxurious home was both reserved and opulent at the same time. The villa was Dedicated to the youth of love and the Latin inscription above the front steps “AMORI ET DOLORI SACRVM” was a shrine to love and sorrow. In 1985, Villa Lysis passed into possession of the Italian state and the building was restored in the 1990s by the Lysis Funds Association (founded in 1986) and the Municipality of Capri. In 2014 the Apeiron Association began a restoration program to transform the house into a cultural centre and event venue. I visited in the mid-90s and loved the feel and vistas of this romantic villa, having seen the more recent pictures perhaps it has lost a little of its charm. 

Close-by, is where the Roman emperor Tiberius had built his Villa Jovis two millennia earlier. Tiberius made it his home when Rome became too hot. If his biographers are to be believed, he got up to all sorts of scandalous behaviour inside his imperial cliff-top villa. You can still visit the ruins of his villas. For more than a decade in the early part of the first century AD, this picturesque Italian island was the principal home of the emperor, Tiberius. (Known as the Tyrant)  He lived a life of extraordinary debauchery, fortified by the finest food and wines served by nude handmaidens. Troupes of beautiful youths of both sexes, gathered from all corners of the Roman world and he hosted endless summer orgies, so by all accounts a good time was had on Capri.

In equal measure to his lechery, however was his bloodlust, he watched his enemies being tortured before being thrown 300ft off the cliffs into the sea below. Close to the Emperor's apartments was a precipice called Tiberius Fall, because from it, he would dispense with unwelcome visitors or disobedient servants, rumour has it even unwanted wives. Putting aside the gruesome history, its still one of the stunning places, I have seen and there is a peacefulness. (Even with the hordes of tourists)

Capri is definitely worth visiting, whatever your budget as you’ll enjoy some sublime moments and take lovely photographs, it what must be one of the most iconic photographic settings.

Holidays of My Childhood

There is a lot of confusion at the moment whether we will be able to take our holidays overseas this year or if we should remain in the UK for our summer breaks. I have been thinking a lot about the holidays of my childhood, although we did travel to Spain in the mid- seventies,( as package holidays were becoming more affordable) I remember going on holiday to Blackpool and caravanning in Flamborough Head (known for its picturesque lighthouse) as a child in more detail. Based in Yorkshire my family often had day trips to Scarborough, Bridlington and Whitby.

As you work your way south along the Yorkshire coast, Bridlington is the last of the four great resort towns after Whitby, Scarborough and Filey. It’s been in use as a port from prehistoric times and has been an important port for fishing ( and for collecting shellfish) since its earliest days and has a huge wealth of history that tends to be forgotten. Bridlington came into its own as a seaside resort in the Victorian era. In the main because of the recently completed railway links from Hull, Scarborough and York. Many of the Victorian buildings along the promenades still remain, most converted into hotels and guest houses although not quite as smart they were and some have seen better days, but still having a jaded grandeur like many of the UK seaside resorts. The North Promenade has lost none of its charm, both perfect for a stroll, watching the fun on the beach below or enjoying the view out to sea. I can still imagine Victorians and Edwardians going for a stroll in their best clothes and taking in the clean, salty air.

 I remember the amusement arcades, bingo, donkey rides,sandcastles on the beach, traditional seafront of souvenir and sweet shops, fun fairs and fresh fish shops boasting some of the finest local catches. The harbour was great. At the top of those steps, you could smell the fish along the harbour and in the gift shops like the lovely shell shop. Small boats could take you on a mini- tour. The food stalls sold, fish and chips, waffles, lemon topped ice cream's, doughnuts, seaside rock and candyfloss, washed down with pop and Horlicks or hot chocolate to warm up. My siblings and I were often ill on the car journey home. The bracing weather, left you windswept but invigorated, we talk about blowing off the cobwebs, a fitting description of an English seaside holiday. The seagulls were (and are still) fierce in attacking careless holiday- makers who lost their meals to the sky diving birds. The boating lake and neat gardens, the mini- golf, the spa, which all seemed very grand to me as a child,with my love of history. 

As an adult, not much has really changed since I was a child, now we are in the age of package holidays and it’s cheaper or was cheaper to spend a fortnight in sun-kissed Spain with its all-inclusive incentives that spend a week on the Yorkshire coast with the prospect of rain and wind rather than sun. However, it’s a great place for families seeking a traditional seaside holiday with its long wide beaches, the old market town and Bridlington quay, the harbour, the amusements and the revamped Spa offering live entertainment.

In the 1970's and 1980's, Driffield Day free coach outings to Bridlington were popular in bringing holiday makers and in 2019 this was relaunched to offer free coach travel from Sheffield, to encourage visitors back to the town.

Bridlington has been a popular tourist destination since Victorian times and perhaps as we start to look at what’s on our doorstep rather than flying off to the sun, its forgotten charms will be remembered and enjoyed once more.  

.

A New Life in the Sun

As most of us are housebound and rather unlikely to be flying off to warmer climes anytime soon, we are all looking for a bit of escapism! One of my secret pleasures is watching A New Life in the Sun on channel 4.  As I usually work, I only get to watch it once a week, now I am getting to see the whole weeks episodes. This series follows expats as they follow their dreams of setting up new lives and businesses (in the sun) it started in 2016 by the production company, True North, it’s now on series six.  Despite the chaos caused by the COVID-19 pandemic and Brexit, hundreds of enterprising Brits still continue to pursue their dreams of a new life overseas, even with the increasing obstacles. Spain ranks as the best place in Europe for expats wanting to enjoy a new life.

This is not that show where people find dream homes in Europe. And while we daytime viewers often daydream about spending our lives sipping wine on a sunny terrace, particularly on cold winter days. It’s a much more realistic documentary series, following Brits as they set up new businesses in mostly Spain and France. We see them through the highs and the lows. Some are starting B&Bs, while others are setting up a restaurant, yoga retreats, microbrewery, or a fishing boat charter business. There’s not a lot of time to relax as many discover! After renovating their properties, dealing with a whole array of problems from bureaucratic hold-ups and demanding customers. But in most cases, they insist that life is better than ever after taking the plunge, thanks to their businesses thriving, a better work-life balance and much more clement weather.

Any dramatic life change, especially one involving uprooting and adapting to a new culture, will have highs and lows, so it’s really interesting to see how tough (or easy) it is for them to start afresh abroad. I am always quite shocked at how many give up every thing to start a new life with limited cash resources, no knowledge of the business they are running and no ability to speak the language of their new country, I don’t know if I find this stupid, brave or a mix of the two. However, many advance preparations are made, there will be always be an element of risk in moving abroad, and I guess that its this willingness to call on a certain degree of open-mindedness, flexibility, and sense of humour that are vital ingredients in making a successful go of it.

I spent some time working in Spain and met some English, Germans and Americans who were living and working overseas. It was a great experience and one I would not have missed, but at times it was really hard. You don’t always have the things you take for granted, like drinking water, hot water, mains electricity, phone lines, the internet and local shops. Just popping out for milk is completely different when it’s a forty-minute drive to the nearest shop. Living in the  rural countryside in Spain can be harsh and isolating. (With no local public travel in some areas)  As for the weather, well its not always lovely and sunny, in fact it can get very cold in the winter, even in spring, up to May it can be warm in the day but very cold at night. And it does rain, the worst rain I have ever seen was in Madrid, the sunny city in April and Southern Spain in early September.

I found on my travels that some British people who move to Spain like to live in some kind of insulated English bubble only mixing with other Brits. I think, it’s not a wise move to not meet with the locals, who will go out of the way in most cases to welcome you and offer assistance. Many expat areas in Spain are hotbeds of bitchy gossips, silly arguments and over- drinking, as they often have lots of time on their hands and little to do. It’s a circle that you can end up being very unhappy in and you will not experience what life in Spain is really like. Learning to speak Spanish and offering to teach English, finding out how to cook the local dishes and going to the local fiestas, is a great way to spent any free time and embrace the culture.

If you are wanting to take the plunge and feel like showing the world your journey on the way then contacts: True North at  www.truenorth.tv. They produce the long-running series follows brits across Europe as they embark on their new adventures, and are looking for new businesses being set up: anything from bars, glamping, water and adventure sports to vineyards. Anything really!

Evidence shows too that if someone has worked abroad once, they are more likely to do so again. There is a kind of psychological make-up which enjoys an exciting nomadic lifestyle, and that probably never goes away. My grandfather always called me a nomad, whether I am or not, I don’t know but I do know I still have the traveling bug and hope I always do!

Italian Ice-Creams and Fish Suppers in Scotland

I have just read Mary Contini’s book Notes to Olivia about her Italian family’s early days in Edinburgh. She is the owner of the famous deli, Valvont and Crola. Scotland's oldest Delicatessen and Italian Wine Merchant and one of Europe's most original Specialist Food Shops. I will come back to the story of this a bit later.

Scotland has long enjoyed an affiliation with Italians since the first immigrants arrived in the late 1800s. It is estimated there are tens of thousands of Scots of Italian heritage, including high profile figures. Italian immigration into Scotland forever reshaped the country's culinary and social landscape.

Interestingly, post Brexit in 2016 there was the biggest surge in immigration in 100 years. One thing that makes it similar to the first phase of immigration from Italian is that large numbers are fleeing due to the lack of opportunity often in Puglia, Calabria and Sicily.

From the late 19th century, Scotland saw an increase in Italian immigrants. At this time, many Italians experienced poverty. Men fled to Scotland to make money to support their families in Italy, sending for them later. For some, it was seen as a stopping point en-route to America. Initially, they came from northern areas such as Tuscany, but emigration spread to the south by the 1900s. When America changed its immigration policy and closed the door of opportunity for many of the poorest Europeans, Scotland saw a further increase in Italian immigrants. The main reasons to seek a new life was as a direct result of economic conditions. Living conditions were harsh, with famine and sometimes droughts. Furthermore, Italy had an agricultural-based economy that was experiencing severe hardships and industrialisation was slower than in other European nations.  Many saw an opportunity to go elsewhere to earn a better living. After a slow start, in which the Italian immigrants failed to make any real economic progression, the Italians seized the opportunity to move into the catering world. Initially working as ‘hokey pokey’ men, selling ice cream from barrows, these men had been recruited in London and then sent to Scotland. They quickly moved into working-class areas, combining ice cream making with selling fish and chips. Restaurants and takeaways were established and sold food made using ingredients widely available in Scotland like fish and potatoes. To this day most Scottish towns still have an Italian chippy.

Fish and chips became essential to the diet of the ordinary man and woman, through the latter part of the 19th century and well into the 20th century. The fish and chip trade expanded greatly to satisfy the needs of the growing industrial population of Great Britain. In fact, you might say that the Industrial Revolution was fuelled partly by fish and chips! Nobody, however, could dispute the Italian influence after they had spotted the business opportunities to be had north of the border by selling pesce e patate. Stuart Atkinson, Scottish executive councillor with the National Fish Friers Federation, said their role was significant. As large numbers of Italian immigrants entered the Scottish fish and chip trade from around 1890 by 1914, they dominated the trade and opened many shops throughout Scotland.

From humble beginnings, by the 1920s these barrows had been transformed into luxury establishments in the city centres via working class areas. There are many famous Italian businesses in Scottish society like Nardini’s which boasted a beautiful Art Deco tearoom that became an key attraction. There was a greater degree of acceptance from the Temperance Movement as the cafés chose not to sell alcohol. Cafés such as these were as much an assertion of an identity in a new land as they were a business as a means of breadwinning. Helping to integrate the new arrivals into the communities of Scottish towns and cities. They were popular ventures for immigrants, and locals took very quickly to the idea. 

In Glasgow, police statistics show that in 1903 there were 89 ice cream shops in the city. A year later that number had nearly doubled, reaching 184, and by 1905 there were estimated to be 336 ice cream shops in the Glasgow area alone. Many made a living from the Scottish sweet tooth. ITally is slang for Italian and the title refers to both Italian blood and to the raspberry sauce added to ice-cream. It is fair to say that Italian cafés were at the heart of Scottish culture, but the question remains as to whether Italians were fully accepted in Scottish society. Their cafés were often the scene of unruly behaviour. This led to cries that the Italian cafés were morally corrupt, articles appeared in newspapers reporting the ‘ice cream hell’. Their popularity wasn’t universal and they did encounter some hard times along the way, which most likely strengthened the ties of the growing Italian community, who helped one another when needed. Immigrants can enrich and bring a new dimension and flavour to the customs and culture of their adopted land. And I am sure that the colourful Italian community must have added character to the dour cities, towns and villages in Scotland. 

What whetted by interest in this subject was the story of brothers Alfonso and Vittorio Crolla who emigrated to Scotland and established a small ice-cream and confectionery in 1906. They were to team up with Raffaele Valvona in 1934, by that time an elderly shopkeeper who was thought by the Italian community to need the acumen of the Crolla family. They sold easily affordable food, mainly to the Italian immigrant community. This succeeded brilliantly, helped by the fact that a lot of returning troops after the war, who had fought in Italy, had acquired a taste for the Italian meats, cheeses and olives.  Having concentrated on inexpensive produce, Valvona & Crolla made the shrewd decision, as supermarkets began to undersell local businesses, to specialise by importing the best Italian food and drink. They were to be a pioneer of healthy food, never failing to point out the virtues of low-cost tomatoes and packets of spaghetti. Alfonso died in the war, but Alfonso’s son, Vittorio continued to work with his uncle, taking over the business in 1945 with his brother-in-law, Carlo Contini.

For 40 years Victor Crolla, was the head of the family at Valvona & Crolla.  His Italian delicatessen was famous not only in Edinburgh but among tens of thousands of festival and other visitors to the Scottish capital. The language in the shop was sui generis (a hybrid between Leith Scots and High Neapolitan) It speaks volumes for the family's relationship with the Scots that during the Second World War the shop's loyal staff continued to keep it open so that there was a business to return to. Victor Crolla, stepped down in 1985, but in the words of his nephew Philip Contini who ran the shop, he continued to be the spiritual head of the store. In 2019 Philip and his wife Mary, handed over the reins to their eldest daughter, Francesca Contini Mackie, Alfonso’s great-grand daughter making this a fourth- generation family business which brings a little bit of Italy to Scotland.

I wish them a continued success; I am a great believer in family and local businesses. I also think it shows how important it is to mix cultures by immigration and hope this does continue as it enriches all our lives for the better!

Learning More Lingo…….

Many Britons are turning to learning languages like never before, according to the Guardian Newspaper. French is one of the most popular choices, as many adults took up a language online during lockdown. The timing seems at odds with recent events like Brexit and Covid stopping overseas travel. With our recent exit from the European Union, should we be saying a very firm and British Goodbye? Yet for many in the UK, it seems that on our departure it is more a case of Au revoir.

Academics maintain the recent upsurge in language apps in Lockdown, shows a pent-up interest and wish to study languages. For a nation supposedly averse to speaking other languages, the British have been turning in large numbers to foreign tongues as a first resort in the absence of more traditional forms of entertainment and communication. 

 It shows there are a lot of people who want to learn a language. It’s surprising how often you meet people in all walks of life who are taking language courses. But many people have been put off by unrealistically difficult exam syllabuses at school, GCSE and A level papers are too demanding and grading is too harsh when compared to other subjects.   Oxford Professor Katrin Kohl 

Formal language learning in our schools has declined substantially over the last 15 years, but there are some signs of encouragement. The British Council’s annual Language Trends survey showed a marked increase in children who took French or Spanish at GCSE in 2019, although A-level entries were still down. It would be great if parents could encourage their children to see the importance of learning another language. In 2018, 96% of pupils in upper secondary education in the EU’s 27 countries learnt English as a foreign language. In a majority of EU Member States, more than three fifths of all upper secondary education pupils were learning two or more foreign languages.

One of the most rewarding aspects of the human experience is our ability to connect with others. Being able to communicate with someone in his or her language is an incredible gift. Bilinguals have the unique opportunity to communicate with a wider range of people in their personal and professional lives.

Despite the decline in schools, adults continue to value language highly, the British Council found. During the spring lockdown, 10% of adults in the UK began learning a foreign language or returned to one after a break. A third of those surveyed said that Spanish was the most important language for young people to learn, followed by French at 20% and Mandarin at 18%.

Thousands more are learning Spanish, German, Italian, or other EU languages, with some of them hoping to improve their language skills to a level where they qualify for citizenship of a European country. Since British citizens no longer have the right to live and work in EU countries after the 31^st of December 2020. The UK is now one of Duolingo’s top five countries by the total number of daily learners, according to the app’s UK general manager, Colin Watkins, with a rise in new learners of 132% on last year. Events like Brexit and Covid plus cultural moments like the Olympics are driving the change, he said. “Brits now want to be better citizens of the world when we travel, when we do business, when we meet people in the UK.” 

I was introduced to Duolingo by a work colleague in lockdown. And since June 2020 have been learning three languages every day.  I introduced my mother to this app and at 76 years old she is learning Spanish. I like the easy- to- use, fun format of Duolingo, I don’t think you could become fluent, but I combine a mix of CDs and books as well as the phone app and have been surprised at how much I have learnt.

I have long been embarrassed at how poor my own language skills and those of my fellow brits are compared to my French, Spanish and German friends. To think that many ex-pats cannot speak the language of the country they live in is wrong on so many levels. Just because English is spoken in most countries is not really a valid excuse. You can simply use your smartphone or other devices to translate everything on-the-go. And while technology certainly helps with communication, but it can never replace human interactions. Be warned, Google translate is also not fully accurate!

Colin Watkins, from Duolingo, says that many of the 15 million people who have signed up to Duolingo’s online courses are not aiming to become fluent but to gain a basic level of understanding. As one of our first courses French was already very popular, so to see it make the top five shows new learners have chosen it because they want to travel there in the future, maybe want to do business, emigrate, or just pick up on what they learned in school.”

Other language learning apps are seeing similar rises. Memrise saw a large increase in new users in March, and 70% of people using its platform are learning Spanish or French, while German, Italian and Japanese are also popular.

The app, Babel helps its community remember the vocabulary they learn through six memory stages using “spaced repetition,” moving words through exercises that are arranged to aid retention. In bite-sized, 10–15-minute lessons, students have opportunities to gain skills in reading, writing, grammar and speaking in their target language in likely scenarios, especially for travel.

Yes, learning a new language is a big challenge. But if you can get in the right state of mind and you're not looking for overnight fluency, the progress you make will make can make you feel incredibly proud. You do have to remain consistent for a few months to see steady progress but it is totally worth it and the more you do it the easier it gets. It’s also a great way to keep your brain in trim studies have shown that using more than one language can delay the onset of dementia by four to five years. Yet another great reason.

Bon Chance et Au revoir.

Is it Finally Over-Brexit?

The UK officially left the 27-member political and economic bloc on the 31st of January 2019, three and half years after the UK public voted to leave in the 2016 Brexit referendum. Sticking to the EU's trading rules for 11 months while the two sides negotiated their future economic partnership.

How did it all start? In a public referendum held on the 23th June 2016, the majority of those who voted chose to leave the European Union. I was a remainder myself, and many of the people I know who voted were not 100% sure which way to vote. Many people have now said if they had the chance to vote again, they would have voted to remain in the EU.

The UK had long been expected to leave the European Union on the 29^th of March 2019.  However, following a House of Commons vote on the 14^th of March 2019, the Government sought permission from the EU to extend Article 50 and agree a later Brexit date. On the 28^th of October 2019, the EU Ambassadors agreed to a further Brexit extension to the 31th of January 2020.

It has taken, several years, much discussion, a national election a new Prime minster and leader of the opposition party. On the 12^th of December 2019, Boris Johnson won a majority in the UK General Election and reaffirmed his commitment to ‘get Brexit done ‘by the 31th of January 2020.

On 23 January 2020, the European Union (Withdrawal Agreement) Act 2020 received Royal Assent.  This is the legislation that will implement the withdrawal agreement negotiated by the UK and the EU. On the 31th of January 2020, the UK was to leave the EU and enter a transition period. The transition period ended on the 31th of December 2020 and the United Kingdom, finally left the EU single market and customs union. 

So, is that it then? Most of us in the UK have not been able to figure out exactly what this deal was, however much we tried to follow! Just as no-one totally understood the reasons for leaving. Deal or No deal have summed up the last few years.

Some people thought we were actually leaving Europe, no, we are Europeans and still part of Europe. We do care about our European friends, who most likely think we don’t. Its all like a bad divorce, with passing time it could hopefully become more amiable.

So, what is actually changing? Before Brexit, the U.K. was part of the E.U.'s single market that allows people, goods, services and money to travel freely around the continent with little or no checks at all. In December, the two sides agreed a new trade deal to replace their old partnership. Businesses and travellers, alike have been waking up to the reality that the new system has the potential for serious disruption to their old life’s.

Brexit has also caused disruption inside the U.K. itself. Extra paperwork has meant delays and empty supermarket shelves in Northern Ireland, which is part of the U.K. but is treated differently in terms of trade under the new post-Brexit deal. Even large retailers like M&S have had difficulties. Some British online retailers have said they are no longer able to ship to Northern Ireland. (even though it's all part of the same country)

This new era has begun for the United Kingdom after it completed its formal separation from the European Union. Replacement arrangements for travel, trade, immigration and security co-operation came into force when the UK stopped following EU rules.

Boris Johnson said the UK had "freedom in our hands and the ability to do things differently and better" now the long Brexit process was over. But opponents of leaving the EU maintain the country will be worse-off. In Brussels, there is said to be, a sense of relief that the long Brexit process is over, but there is regret still at Brexit itself. Basically, the European Union thinks that Brexit makes both the EU and the UK weaker. This is a valid point.

Whether we like it or not, and most of us don’t, significant changes are here, for trade, travel, security and immigration and more changes could well become more apparent in the months ahead.

It’s a time of great change, uncertainty and sadness that this should have even happened. But life goes on Post- Brexit and the only way is forward and to work with it. I hope my many ex-pats friends are ok, as like in Ireland they are experiencing the worst deal in all of this.

I love travel and have always hoped to retire overseas and hope I still can!

Brocante Images

 

The Joy of Shopping in Brocantes- French Second-Hand Markets

Brocantes are regular weekend events where a brocanteur (the French word ‘brocanteur’ means ‘broker) sells various antique and vintage goods. In France, Brocantes are also known as Puces or flea markets, which is a term that originated in Paris back in the 19th century. A visit to a Brocante market can be the highlight of a trip to France. It is such a lively encounter with everyday French culture and a fun way to spend a few hours. It’s a great place to find collectables or pick up a unique souvenir. These can also be known as vide-greniers a bit like our house clearance sales. These events which are basically emptying the attics, take place in many of the larger towns about once a month and are popular throughout France, often on Sundays. Some are all year round but the majority are held in the spring to autumn months. The size of the market can range from just a few stalls to the enormous markets such as the Braderie in Lille.

The French are a nation of recyclers and hate to throw something away if they think it can be 're-loved', and this is what drives their passion for second hand-markets. With some of Europe’s, most storied and well-stocked antique fairs and flea markets, France is a must do for antique lovers as you'll have an opportunity to pick up some wonderful or unusual items that you simply won’t see in the shops. Visitors frequently uncover precious finds that add that extra touch to their home and heart. Others simply enjoy the thrill of the hunt, whether that quest is for a specific item or a general rambling through stalls and streets, trying to find the next diamond in the rough. The best deals are to be found at the street markets, the smaller villages will have lower prices that larger cities and towns, and outside of Paris, you’ll notice a huge drop in the prices.

Rather like highbrow car boot sales or flea markets. Traders spread their wares across pavements and sell everything from vintage buttons to antique furniture. In recent years, Brocantes have become very fashionable and vintage sellers have become wise to the fact that tourists flock to them looking for a bargain. Items don’t tend to be priced and haggling is expected, so don’t be shy when it comes to battling for the price you want! Generally, Brocante dealers are kind, full of stories and more than willing to drop a few euros when asked for le dernier prix.

Many of the street markets will also sell on food, so you can have a glass of wine or coffee and watch the world go by too, it’s a lovely way to spend a morning or day out.

Great Markets to See

Braderie is one of the largest in Europe and is in Lille. It takes place in the first week of September and there are more than 10,000 stalls.

Cours Saleya on Mondays, in Nice has around 200 flea market vendors selling their wares. This is a fairly high-quality market; however, bargain hunters can also score a good find, particularly in the adjacent place Pierre Gauthier, where odds and ends are piled on the ground.

Réderie d’automne in Amiens. This yearly autumnal event takes place in October for one day. This market attracts 2,000 vendors and receives tens of thousands of visitors each year. This is one of the premier spots to hunt for antiques or simply take in the spectacle. It starts very early in the morning.

Villeurbanne Flea Market in Lyon on Sunday mornings has 400 stalls selling rustic goods of all kinds. The set-ups are a bit informal, but its crammed with exciting finds and great to rummage through.

To locate markets in the area you are due to visit, the website www.brocabrac.fr is helpful as it lists brocantes by the area or by the day of the week. L’Agenda des Brocantes is the most popular calendar of events, see  www.agendadesbrocantes.fr for details.

Escape to The Chateau- A Home in France……

I have talked about guilty pleasures and the importance of escaping once in a while and the TV series that’s combines both of these is Escape to The Chateau. For DIY fans, budding interior designers and Francophiles it makes for perfect viewing. The ever-practical Dick Strawbridge, with the best moustache on TV and fabulously creative Angel Strawbridge are a wonderful team. This capable couple swapped their two-bed home in East London after searching for the chateau for four years and then spent a further five years turning Chateau de la Motte Husson into a family home. It also became a successful business, when Channel 4 commissioned a TV series. The programme became surprisingly popular and the husband-and-wife duo recently explained why they wanted to get involved with the series We saw it as an adventure. TV presenter Dick and author Angel now employ a PR to market their thriving business empire which includes not just weddings, functions and housing B&B guests in their lovely home, but several books, homeware, gifts, soft furnishings, calendars, diaries and cards. The pair have also been seen a spin-off DIY series which shows them helping others to share the dream of restoring an old castle or house in France, to run as a business.

They have had quite a journey and we have been able to share this with them, they almost feel like old friends! They found the Chateau in 2014 and the purchase was completed 2015. Priced at £350,000, Chateau de la Motte Husson was an incredible bargain and their dream home except for the fact it had no sewerage, no electricity and no heating. Bringing a forty-five room, five storey house and its gardens, back to life after years of neglect takes hard work and dedication. Dick and Angel have proven to have these in abundance and the final result is well-worth their efforts. The couple have no plans to sell the chateau but could make a profit of around £1.5 million if they put it on the market. Dick has estimated that they have spent around £280,000 renovating the chateau. Their skills in re-making and re-designing must have saved them a small fortune, as well as showing us all how to give a new life to old furniture, attic and second-hand finds, which is so important for us all to start doing again.

I’ve dreamt for years about living a simple life with good food and wine, fresh air and two-hour lunches every day. So, when my partner Angela and I decided to start our French adventure, I could almost smell the roses    Dick Strawbridge

The History of the Chateau de la Motte Husson is a long and interesting one, so I’ll give you, a short version: It all dates back to English kings having possessions on the European mainland, as far back as 1066.  When William the Conqueror, then Duke of Normandy became the King of England. From the 12th to the 14th centuries the site of the chateau was in the parish of La Motte and was a fortified stronghold. It was not until 1406 that the Husson family, the Seigneurs of Montgiroux, named the castle Chateau de la Motte Husson, which remains its name today. In1600, the estate was acquired by the de Baglion family, who were descendants of the princes of Perugia.

The castle was rebuilt in the enclosure of the old square moat during the period of 1868-1874. This was the time of great wealth in the aristocracy.  The Countess Dorothée told her husband that she wanted a grand chateau on the site of the fort. Her main residence was near Nantes, a hundred miles to the South West, and the family decided to spend winters in the milder climate, and summers in the country at Chateau de la Motte Husson. They were privileged, didn’t work and were occupied with living life to the full, staying in their grand houses and those of their friends. It was important at the time to receive visitors in grandeur and to display the great wealth of the owners. It was passed down through the generations of the de Baglion family.  The last member of the family was Guy de Baglion de la Dufferie who owned the chateau until his death in 1999, when it passed to his wife and children. The château had remained unoccupied for nearly 40 years when it was put up for sale in 2015. By which time it had fallen into a very poor state of repair.

Dick was born in Burma, but raised and educated in Northern Ireland. Dick attended the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst and in 1979, was commissioned into the Royal Corps of Signals. After serving in Germany, England, the Caribbean, the Middle East and Northern Ireland, he retired as a Lieutenant Colonel in 2001. He then had a successful career as a Programme Manager for a large multinational company before becoming a full-time television presenter and author. Dick is a man of many interests and talents. And first hit our television screens with Scrapheap Challenge.

Angela- known as Angel, is the founder of The Vintage Patisserie, a glamorous hospitality company and the author of the best-selling Vintage Tea Party books. Humble beginnings and hard work have secured Angel coverage in nearly every glossy and national newspaper. In 2011 she opened her first Vintage Patisserie in Hackney, East London. With eleven staff and ten events a week, business blossomed. A book deal followed and Angel’s books have sold copies all over the world.

This year as been a very different one for everyone and whilst Chateau de la Motte Husson was closed to guests, a new series called Make-do and Mend was filmed during lockdown. The 7th series of Escape to The Chateau is currently been filmed and is to be aired at the end of this year. I would love to restore an old property, a chateau is possibly to ambitious for me, but like Dick and Angel you can always have the dream, and you never know it might one day, like a true-life fairy-tale come true!

If you want more details, there is a website and a Facebook group which also shows the progress of the other  wonderful Chateau owners and their properties. You can catch up on Channel 4 or Netflix.

www. vintagepatisserie.co.uk/chateau-de-la-motte-husson

Paris Flea-Markets- Marché aux Puces

I love the Paris flea- markets, and always plan a trip to Paris on the days the market takes place, as a trip to Paris would be incomplete without a day spent visiting the market. The diversity of personalities, stall keepers and products for sale, some more antique than others, makes it unmissable. The term flea market originated with the French marché aux puces. It translates as market of the fleas and refers to the flea-infested used clothing that was sold. Well, hopefully the fleas are a thing of the past but the markets still continue and are gaining in popularity as second-hand, vintage or pre-loved are totally on-trend. The weekend flea market Paris is one of the very best in France, in terms of the size and the eclectic nature of its wares. Its a little off the beaten track, which makes it even more worthwhile visiting. In my opinion, off- the beaten track is always the best way to see a city! 

The history of the flea market dates back over two centuries, when rag and bone men scoured through the garbage of Paris at night to find valuable junk to sell on. They were called crocheteurs or pickers. The romantic term was pêcheurs de lune'or fishermen for the moon. Many tried setting up temporary stalls within the Paris walls in sleazy neighbourhoods, but because these districts were full of pickpockets and thieves, they were chased out of the city walls to Clignancourt, Montreuil and Vanves. All of which continue to trade today.

The rag and bone men gathered outside the walls of Paris at the Porte de Clignancourt and set up temporary stalls. Eventually, they formed groups of stalls to attract more customers. The more enterprising traders began to trade up in terms of goods and eventually it became popular for Parisian collectors and antique dealers to shop there for bargains. 

In 1885, authorities in the town of Saint Ouen made a significant move to pave the streets and clean up the area, marking the official starting year of Les Puces. Several areas were designated as official market areas and a fee had to be paid to set up a stall there. The markets grew until Monsieur Romain Vernaison transformed the land, he owned into a series of covered huts which was to be called Marché Vernaison. This was followed by an Albanian named Malik who bought a restaurant on Rue Jules Vallès and transformed the building into 100 stalls which formed the Malik market. The Marché du Biron was formed in 1925, with two long rows of stalls and is known as one of the more expensive markets. Marché Jules Vallès was created in 1938 which is a smaller covered flea square market. Over time additional markets have been added including the Marché Dauphine, which is the largest covered market of the Saint-Ouen flea market. Now the market spans for miles and consists of 14 different markets.

On Saturday’s, Sunday’s and Monday mornings, Marché aux Puces de Clignancourt or Paris St-Ouen flea market is one of the most popular flea markets in the country with nearly a quarter of a million visitors annually. This market is well known for vendors that sell just about anything. The best way to get to the market is by metro on Line 4 the stop is the Porte de Clignancourt. The market and the neighbourhood are very colourful, don’t wear your best clothes, always wear comfortable shoes as you walk a lot and don't take valuables with you. The 18th arrondissement, where the market is located is in a less affluent part of Paris and the market gets very crowded. You can safely stroll around here during the day but you do need to watch your wallet and handbag. I prefer to go quite early in the morning. 

The Rue des Rosiers is the main street which you walk down in order to go into the separate markets. The individual markets tend to run into each other and there are also some Art Deco and antique shops, along the way. The various markets specialize in different items and I have listed these for you below. I enjoy browsing the markets which are more Bric-à-Brac and Marché Vernaison for textiles, paintings and furniture. You can get lost wandering down the alleyways so do try to remember landmarks. Marché Jules Vallès has the reputation of being the cheapest and the most picturesque market sells antiques postcards, posters and smaller items. Antique enthusiasts can rejoice in bargain-hunting without fuss in these iconic old- fashioned stalls and antiques shops. It promises countless surprises and unusual finds. The Paris market is more expensive than the other markets in France.

The different markets are below:

The Antica Market-Located in a stylish and elegant gallery, this market has a dozen stands and offers paintings, bronze, porcelain and Art Deco style goods.

The Biron Market-220 Antiques and Art dealers offer luxury goods, jewellery, furniture, paintings, mirrors, light fixtures.

The Cambo Market-A small market consisting of 20 different stands across two floors, where you’ll find high-quality restored furniture and works of art

The Dauphine Market-Inaugurated in 1991, this is the newest but also the largest market, with 180 merchants spread across two floors. You can find classic antiques dating back to the 18th and the 19th century as well as items from the 20th century. Its most eclectic market of the Flea market.

The Le Passage Market-Linking the Rue Lécuyer to Rue Jules Vallès. There are a variety of items available for sale antique, but this market is mainly geared towards vintage clothes.

The Malassis Market-This covered market will send you back in time with its original, innovative architecture. You can find antiques dealers, decorators, themed shops, collectors and jewellery.

The Malik Market-This market has sportswear and trendy clothing. Hipsters find trendy Parisian fashion, vintage and old uniforms, think Camden Market.

The Vernaison Market-It offers the largest number of stands: furniture, ancient toys, glassware and vintage clothing.

The Paul Bert Market-This market is popular with interior decorators across the world offering industrial and antique furniture.

The Serpette Market-This market has an upper-class clientele and offers high-end antiques like silverware and table decorations.

The Entrepôt Market-The market offers unique items such as staircases, bookcases, woodwork, castle gates.

The Rues Market-This is like a jumble sale, where people lay their goods out on the ground. You’ll also find some unusual items throughout these stands and boutiques with vintage clothes and furniture. It’s great for rummaging.

Maps are available and it is possible to take a tour of the markets with an experienced antique buyer if you are worried about exploring on your own. Various companies offer this service. Check out the website below, they also have some great advice about the market.

www.parisperfect.com/tour/paris-flea-market-tour

The markets have been closed but are due to re-open this weekend, if you need more details see the link below.

https://uk.tourisme93.com/saint-ouen-clignancourt-flea-market-access-and-opening-times.html

Paris- A City for Lovers

I thought of this blog post a short while ago, and since then, like most people I have binge-watched Emily in Paris. Known as the City for Lovers, for me, it’s a city for; fashion lovers, food lovers, art lovers, architecture lovers, history lovers and simply lovers of life….

The Netflix series has come in for some criticism for using cliques of Parisians and their life’s, whilst I see this a little, it also does portray the Paris that I have seen with my own eyes. And after all it’s a light- hearted, series which offers escapism, (which we all need right now) not a gritty, realistic drama. I am sure when we can travel for freely, myself included, we will all be flocking to spent time in the beautiful city of Paris.

I have been to Paris, many times but not for several years, and I know that it has undergone some upheavals and changes, but like a fading beauty queen, she will never totally lose her true glamour. There is an under-side, as in all major cities and caution is required, particularly where muggings and pickpockets are concerned. But by using some common-sense, essential for all travellers it is still relatively safe. Leave your valuables in a safe place and pay attention when you are out and about if you a female solo traveller.

Parisians, it has to be said are a law to themselves, a bit like native New Yorkers, however their attitude is to envy, confident, arrogant and so very French, as a self-enfacing, English person it’s quite refreshing to see, well in small amounts.

Anyway, less of the people and more of the city, I love walking around Paris, as a poor student, I didn’t have any choice, but by exploring this way, you always find a wonderful little street or bistro and I discover something new, every time I visit. Walking is a very Parisian thing to do to. People- watching is one of by favourite things to do, and siting with un café et une croissant and watching the world go by is a Parisian tradition, I find, I can easily adopt.

A break in Paris, offers something for everyone, from wonderful shops, restaurants, galleries and museums, there is so much to see and do. I always think its best to see less and savour the experience, rather than trying to fit everything into a few days, as you totally lose the vibe of the city by doing this and its great to have a good excuse to return.

Guide books and maps are helpful particularly if it’s your first visit but by going off the beaten track you discover things yourself, so I make loose plans which I can then change easily. I prefer to eat in smaller local places, as sometimes the well-know destinations can be full of tourists and a bit disappointing. An open mind when traveling can give you a better experience. I learnt French at school and have been re-learning French in the lockdown, I always aim to speak French in Paris, sometimes you will not be understood (often on purpose), you may even be corrected but it’s just the Parisian way.

The blog the Every Day Parisian is very interesting with some great tips, as an American writes about her time living in Paris, the photos are lovely too. Paris is perfect for any time of year, as the seasons are quite different, just dress correctly. It can be cold and wet in Winter and very hot in Summer, pretty sun- dresses are great, in Paris, summer fashion is not too revealing and don’t forgot comfortable shoes for all the walking, the cobbled streets are not great for heels. An umbrella is often needed as it does rain quite a bit.

I can't wait to return, but in the meantime, I might just watch Emily in Paris again!

Figs-The Tree of Life

I love figs these always seem like such a special treat and they always take be back to living in southern Spain. As I had a fig tree close to where I stayed and often picked these straight off the tree, although avoiding the wasps that live around fig trees is a challenge. Whilst figs can be grown in the UK, English figs are never quite as sweet and if we buy the imported ones, which are picked when not quite ripe, they rarely have the syrupy intensity of the ones we enjoy on holiday. One of life's finest fruity pleasures, sweet, fragrant, juicy figs sun-warmed and straight from the tree.

“To eat figs off the tree in the very early morning, when they have been barely touched by the sun, is one of the exquisite pleasures of the Mediterranean.” Elizabeth David- Writer

Figs were a gift from the Romans (via Asia) which doesn’t surprise me at all, as I think of them as been slightly decadent and the Romans certainly loved and still love life! Since Biblical times figs have been associated with sin. Judas hung himself from a fig tree while Adam and Eve covered their private parts with fig leaves. Known as ‘The tree of life’ by the ancient Egyptians, they were much enjoyed by Cleopatra. Remnants of figs have been found in excavations of sites traced to at least 5,000 B.C. making the edible fig one of the first plants that was cultivated by humans.

They have a jewel- like appearance and are rich in minerals including: potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron and copper. As a good source of antioxidants, vitamins A, E and K that contribute to health and wellness, figs can be a useful food to include in the diet for those watching their weight. As they are high fibre foods provide feelings of fullness and can reduce hunger pangs. Figs also contain prebiotics, which helps support the pre-existing good bacteria in the gut. One more great reason to include these in your diet.

Spain is the largest producer of figs in Europe, with 25% of Europe's production, followed by Albania, Germany, Portugal, Italy, Greece, Montenegro, France and Croatia. Figs grow best and produce the best quality fruit in the Mediterranean and in dry, warmer climates Two crops of figs are potentially produced each year. The first, called the breba crop, develops in the spring on last year’s growth. The main fig season is between summer and autumn. Figs perish quickly, so are usually best eaten within one to two days.

The fig is called the higo, in Spain, and only the female fig trees deliver fruit. It’s part of the mulberry tree family. Although commonly referred to as a fruit, the fig fruit is actually the flower of the tree, known as an inflorescence (an arrangement of multiple flowers), a false fruit or multiple fruit, in which the flowers and seeds grow together to form a single mass.

There are numerous varieties and colours including green ones, in Mallorca alone there are actually 15 variations. I think that figs are lovely fresh in late summer, but they are very versatile and can be eaten fresh, peeled or un­peeled, cooked and dried. They partner very well with cheese and nuts and are perfect in salads with Spanish ham. Stuffed with goats’ cheese and walnuts with a drizzle of honey and balsamic vinegar, they make a wonderful starter or tapas. Baked and served with yoghurt or as the Spanish like them, dipped in chocolate they make a tasty dessert.

Pan de higo is a traditional way to preserve figs for the cold winter months. The artisanal fig cake is a specialty of Jaen in Andalusia, and as it contains no flour, the cake will last a long time.

Fig jam is also a real treat and an ideal way to enjoy figs all year round.

All in all, figs are just perfect, however you choose to eat them.

Apricots- Persian Golden Eggs of the Sun

Apricots are one of the earliest summer fruits, its name comes from the Latin praecox which means precocious. They originate in the North East of China, very close to the Russian border. Prunus Armeniaca are descended from a wild Chinese variety and were cultivated more than 5,000 years ago. The Romans brought them to Europe around 70 BC. Nowadays, apricots are grown mainly in the South East of Spain and the rest of the Mediterranean countries. Apricots were first taken to England from Italy in 1542 by Henry VIII’s gardener, a French priest and horticultural expert called Jean Le Loup. By 1782 a Wigan nursery had published a catalogue with 14 varieties of apricots. 

Dried or fresh, Alberoc, as they are known, were introduced by the sweet-toothed Arabs to Spain. At first they weren’t very popular because of the various superstitions that surrounded them. It was said, for instance, that if an apricot tree leaf fell on one’s back it would cause incurable diseases. Although these were grown for centuries it was only in the 19^th century that production prospered and it became an international rather than a local market. In the 1970s Spain, in particular Mallorca, began to rival the production in Morocco and Tunisia, which had always dominated the market. 

More apricots are grown in Murcia than anywhere else in Spain, followed by the Balearics and Valencia. Apricots are one of the traditional fruits of a Majorcan summer and are juicy, full of flavour and have a memorable perfume. The best apricots are ripe but firm, with plenty of colour and without blemishes. They can become overripe very quickly, so never buy large quantities unless you are going to be using them immediately. As a rule, those with the stronger brighter colours will be sweeter.

 Unlike most market fruits, the apricot is extremely fragile. It must be picked when completely ripe, for it won’t ripen further after picking. Because the fruit doesn’t travel well, it is found in the markets for only a short time. The bulk of the commercial crop is conserved or dried. Majorca’s dried apricots, known as Orejones, are more important to the local economy than the fresh ones. They are exported all over the world. Majorcan dried apricots aren’t as sweet as the Turkish varieties and because of that they have much more character. Their slightly acidic taste makes them ideal for use in Middle Eastern lamb stews and tajines. Spaniards usually prefer those from Turkey.

When the harvest is large, the women of the town, and sometimes others from nearby villages, do a shift of 10 hours per day so the fruit can be put through the drying process as soon as it is harvested. The apricots chosen for drying are always those that have fallen to the ground. The finest ones are collected in baskets and taken to the waiting army of women who slice them in two, extract the pits and place them on big wicker frames or trays, cut side up. The kernels in the pits are later sold for the making of turrón, Spain’s traditional nougat that is an essential part of the Christmas table. It is on sale all year long, but the vast majority of Spaniards eat it only over the 12 days of Christmas.

The Arabs introduced apricot's to Spain and their influence on Spanish cuisine is still very obvious, you find apricots in Spanish meat and tapas dishes. Capirotada, is a Majorcan rabbit dish for which apricots are cooked and then used in the sauce. More than 100 years ago, Majorcan housewives added apricots preserved in syrup to a greixonera of sopes mallorquines. And today, some Majorcans use fresh apricots instead of olives to accompany a sopes during the summer months. As so often happens in country cooking, one eats what is in season and plentiful.

Spanish cooks and housewives like to preserve apricots, in a thick syrup or in alcohol of some kind, usually brandy or aguardiente. Compotes of all kinds are popular. Cooks are also fond of dipping fruit in batter and frying it and there is an apricot version. In pastry shops, you will see that when apricots are in season, they are used on the surfaces of ensaimadas and on sweet cocas.

In 2019, February’s mild and sunny weather in Spain proved to be catastrophic for the apricot trees, reducing the crop by around 75%. The year’s gigantic plunge in the harvest means there will be fewer dried apricots. Which has meant a rise in prices, already Spanish apricots cost more than Turkish ones. The exceptional harvests from previous seasons also means the trees produce less the following year. After a rather abundant 2019, at least in terms of early-season varieties, the 2020 campaign will be marked by a substantial fall in apricot production. We actually need to go back to 2003, or even 1998, to find such a low production level. This bad news comes on the back of a 2019 apricot campaign which saw weak demand and poor prices in northern Europe.

This year they will be much rarer than usual. But I do hope that this will only be a temporary setback for the precocious apricot and one of my favourite summer fruits.

Cellers- Traditional Mallorcan Taverns

As mentioned previously the production of wine in Mallorca was affected more greatly than mainline Spain by the vine pest. Which led to other crops been grown on the vines. The wine cellars were left standing unused, now as resourceful as ever the Mallorca’s came up with an alternative use. The wine cellars were converted into semi-underground restaurants. These are very distinctive of Mallorca, I’m not sure if anyone else has these? The food served is traditional and you should not expect fine dining as its good rustic fare. Real basement cellers have wine vats to prove it even if nowadays the term is used for any old-style restaurant. The best cellers are usually found in rural market towns like Inca and Sineu. These are great places to try Mallorcan classics like llom amb col (pork wrapped in cabbage) or frit mallorqui (fried offal). You can combine a trip to the weekly market with a visit to a cellar for an authentic day out.

Traditionally a celler had been a place where the wine was made and aged. These places were later transformed into restaurants specialising in Majorcan dishes, first aimed at the local residents, and later to tourists. I will give you a brief history of how cellers came about in Mallorca.

Before cars and vans became the norm, goods were transported around the island by mule-drawn carriages. This made a cross-island journey a slow affair. Its also fair to say that the men who were transporting goods were never in a hurry to get from A to B. So, a journey from one side of the island to the other could easily take a couple of days, meaning many people wanted to sleep overnight.

Along the old main road from Puerto Andratx to Puerto Alcudia there were roadside taverns called hostals that put up people and mules for the night. Now although these were at strategic points on the route, the main stop-off point and the favourite resting place for most people was Inca. As the geographical centre of the island it was the ideal stop on such a long journey. And Inca was well prepared to handle travellers. As it is also in the heart of one of the island’s main wine-producing areas, Inca was a major supplier of wines from the barrel.

The authentic cellars were below ground level so were cooler than premises at ground level. The better ones had several wines in barrels and people who lived nearby, as well as those who came from far away, took along wicker-covered flagons that were filled direct from the barrels. However, travellers going either east or west across the island, often wanted something to eat. That was easy enough because the celler owner’s wife always had country bread at hand and it was easy to serve a few slices with sobrasada or other kinds of local charcuterie. Travellers were soon interested in eating something more substantial. So, she began to make larger amounts of what the family were eating for lunch or dinner and she served that as the dish of the day. All housewives were good cooks in those days, some were better than others and many of the cellers started to serve two dishes instead of just one and even offer desserts.

Long before visitors from every corner of the island were pulled towards Inca, Sineu, Petra, Palma or Algaida. Inca was already famous with the locals as a haven for good Majorcan cooking. I can testify to this myself as this town has a large range of very good, affordable eating places.

Cellers were started as large and convenient places where people bought and drank wine. But, soon the wine-dispensing cellers became the restaurants they are today. The food served was only Majorcan cooking. Usually from a family- recipes and although the dishes were the familiar local kind, each family had variations that made their versions different. Some of the cellers have been in the hands of the same family group for decades producing a strong connection with the past. That’s why you will find an unbroken line of tradition in the cellers and other village restaurants that have been in the same family for generations. And it is this dedication to cooking as it was done more than 100 years ago that keeps people going back to them.

The most famous is the Celler Sa Premsa Restaurant, a true Mallorcan treasure located within the island’s capital city of Palma. You dine in a rustic restaurant surrounded by wooden barrels and local flair. The menu comprises of genuine traditional local cuisine, giving its visitors a little snippet of the island's culinary secrets. It has been famous since the 1960s.

Celler Can Amer in Inca, is located in a building which is classed as historic heritage. The food is delicious including roast sucking pig. Also, in Inca, is the Celler can Ripoll, famous for its cuisine since the 1940s, which has a pretty garden terrace. The building dates back to 1768, so ideal for history lovers as well as foodies.

When in Mallorca, you should definitely try some typical local food. There are various restaurants to be explored around the island and they will be full of Mallorcan patrons as well as been popular with tourists. These, are such a different experience and the cooler temperature is idea for eating on very hot days. I’m sure you will enjoy it very much!

Con Pescado- With Fish

I have talked about the importance of fish in the Mediterranean diet before. In the UK, Fish and Chips is one of the most popular dishes, now whilst I am a big fan too, battered and fried fish with fried potatoes is not a healthy meal even with all the benefits of fish. When I googled fish, it brought up nearby Fish and Chip shops which says a lot.

A Mediterranean diet incorporates the traditional healthy living habits of people from countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea, including: Greece, Italy and Spain. The Mediterranean diet varies by country and region. But generally, it's high in vegetables, fruits, legumes, nuts, beans, cereals, grains, fish and unsaturated fats such as olive oil. It usually includes a low intake of meat and dairy foods. Fish are important in the Mediterranean diet, which recommends consuming more fish (at least twice a week) than meat. Fatty fish; mackerel, herring, sardines, albacore tuna, salmon and lake trout are all rich in omega-3 fatty acids. (A type of polyunsaturated fat that may reduce inflammation in the body)

Conveniently close to the Mediterranean Sea, it’s no surprise that people in the Mediterranean eat mostly locally sourced seafood. Seafood, both fish and shellfish, are consumed several times per week. Naturally, the fresher, the better when it comes to the quality and taste of seafood.

I added more fish to my diet, whilst staying in Spain. However, Spanish Pescaderías or fish markets can be very intimidating and very different to the fish counters in the UK. Whole fish are displayed on ice, with large shiny eyes staring up at you and gaping mouths revealing rows of razor-sharp teeth. So many varieties are displayed it’s difficult to choose and certainly a linguistic challenge to explain what you want to buy.

In Mallorca, most of the fish on sale, is imported from mainland Spain due to the local decline. However, there are still some local varieties especially appreciated by the Mallorcans. Perhaps the most famous is the Gamba Roja de Sóller or Sóller Red Prawn which is fished daily and brought to Port de Sóller, where they are sold at the local fish market. These prawns can be eaten raw in carpaccio or tartare, baked in salt, fried or grilled. The most sought-after variety of fish is the raor or razorfish, which is considered the most coveted and expensive fish in the Balearic Islands. There are also plenty of Mediterranean rockfish species such as the caproig or the anfòs which are commonly used in stews. Popular local recipes include lobster casserole, sea bass in rock salt, seafood rice and greixonera de peix, a hearty fish stew cooked in an earthenware bowl. Which is my favourite way of eating fish in Mallorca. Native Mallorcans prefer their fresh seafood grilled with just a bit of salt and lemon and if you are sitting close to the sea this is just perfect. My local friends took me to a seafood restaurant and the meal its self was very simple, grilled fish and local vegetables without any sauce, but the freshness of both made it one of the best meals I have every had. The Balearic Islands have a lot of wonderful fish restaurants for ever budget, many with lovely views.

In Malaga, fried fish called pescaíto is the backbone of typical Malaga cuisine. Served at restaurants and beach bars throughout the city, plates of pescaíto are part and parcel of any Malagueños lunch or supper. Given its perfect seaside location, it probably comes as no surprise that one of the most popular tapas in Malaga is a form of seafood. The beachfront bars known as Chiringuitos, grill sewers of seafood known as espetos, sardines being the most popular, directly over an open flame on a grill made of an old fishing boat. Freshly fished from Malaga bay and grilled to perfection. If you only eat one thing while you’re here, make it these. I love to go for a long walk by the seafront and the sight and wonderful aromas of the Chiringuitos make it an unforgettable experience. There was talk about these been banned, to public outcry as these are so much part of the coastline.

Its impossible to visit Spain without having Tapas, and Malaga’s boquerones fritos, which are crispy fried anchovies are delicious and I don’t like the salty little fish usually. Octopus is also popular in Tapas, I can't say that I like it all that much, but I think its important to at least try local dishes.

If you are in Spain do remember that not only is fish good for health but it will be totally delicious too particularly with a chilled glass of wine and a sea front view.

Sea-Salt- Ses Saline’s d’Es Trenc

Now, I rarely use salt.I think processed table salt is just awful and I have found out recently just had bad it is for your health. Now despite the fact we’re constantly being advised to reduce our daily salt intake, this is the oldest and most used seasoning. Chefs and cooks can’t do without it!

Sea- salt does have greater health benefits, it has higher concentrations of magnesium, potassium, calcium and micro nutrients than table salt which makes it much better for us. In a warmer climate a degree of salt is required.

Mallorca combines the three factors needed for the production of pure and high-quality sea salt: crystal-clear sea water, high temperatures and sea breezes. Therefore, it’s no surprise that the extraction of this precious mineral started centuries ago. In fact, the first salt exploitation's in Mallorca date back to over 2,000 years ago. In recent times, this industry has grown significantly. The most important salt mines are located in Ses Salines d’Es Trenc. They produce an astounding amount of 15,000 tons of sea salt per year and cover an area of 172 hectares.

The Las Salinas factory produces salt in the method first used by the Phoenicians thousand's of years ago. The process of evaporation of the water in immense 'pans' produces pure, high quality salt. Las Salinas covers a vast area, as large man-made salt lakes on slightly different levels are required to process the gradually evaporating sea water as the salt crystals slowly form and are stored in great heaps. The salt is used for varying purposes; in industry, in the home, for chemical processes, water purification and in swimming pools. In cooking the salt can be used for everyday purposes both in fine and rough grains. The Flor de Sal (which translates as sea blossom salt) is a gourmet salt, which is a growing business as the demand increases for high quality, natural ingredients with home cooks and chefs alike.

Flor de Sal d’Es Trenc is harvested by hand. The salt workers still use traditional rakes to extract the salt flower from the surface of the water and then dry it under the sun. The production and packaging are also done by hand, a total of 15 people are involved in the process. The Flor de Sal is stored in natural baskets and then sun-dried the next day. Finally, it is flavoured with Mediterranean herbs and spices such as: orange, lemon, hibiscus, black olive, lavender and rosemary. Today’s ranges include limited editions, like curry and one with beetroot. All the additives, are fresh, natural, local and often organic. There is a plain variety which has nothing added or removed, making it a 100% natural. You only need to use a very small amount so it lasts for ages. My personal favourite is the lemon.

In fact, Flor de Sal d´es Trenc is the most precious salt in the Mediterranean and without a doubt one of the island’s most important products. Mallorca’s gastronomic reputation owes something to an enterprising Swiss-German woman, Katja Wöhr, who moved to the island in 2002. The previous year, she had been fascinated by the harvesting of Fleur de Sel during a visit to France. She came to Mallorca and was the first person to harvest and commercialise Flor de Sal from the salt marshes behind Es Trenc. Which is a white sandy beach within an officially protected area that’s home to 180 species of birds. In 2003, after obtaining the necessary licence, Katja and a friend began to harvest Flor de Sal manually, using the traditional French rake known as a lousse. Initially, they bagged the crystals and sold them, alongside an honesty box, at the entrance to the salt marshes. Visitors to the Es Trenc beach would buy the salt as a souvenir. Its still a great reminder of your holiday in Mallorca.

It was the involvement of Marc Fosh, the British chef and owner of the Michelin-starred restaurant Marc Fosh in Palma who aided the product’s early success. 

Marc explains, I’d already been using my own home-made flavoured salts in my kitchen and suggested producing flavoured flor de sal to. We had several different tastings over the following weeks and finally decided on black olive, Mediterranean herbs, and hibiscus, as the first, flavours.

 He attributes the real success to Katja who was a real trailblazer and he was extremely happy to play a small part in the success of Flor de Sal d’es Trenc.

You can buy online on the Flor de Sal d’Es Trenc website and at the company’s four shops on the island of Mallorca. Specialist food stores around the world do stock the range too. There are lots of flavoured salts on the market these days, but as a non-salt lover these have really converted me to using and enjoying a little more salt.